我的撒哈拉之旅

笑襯孤獨

或許是三毛或許是小王子,讓我對撒哈拉有著美麗的幻想,站在繁星的沙漠上想像著小王子每天等待44次的日出,更體會到了三毛所描述的大漠晚霞。

還好有這趟旅程,讓我深深的領悟到,這世界上沒有什麼地方是到不了的,只是有沒有決心和勇氣罷了。在沙漠的每一天都看得到曙光,用日光取暖,給自己力量,我看著無際的地平線,才發現幸福是握在自己手心裡,關於夢的答案,讓它發光。

這不是一趟華麗的旅行,路途遙遠過程艱辛但卻是一場無與倫比的旅行,仰望星空時發現星空的意義再也不一樣了,在撒哈拉的故事待我慢慢回味。

我的撒哈拉之旅,就這樣開始了。

--

The Sahara has always fascinated me, to me, it was a place I'd dream about, not one day become a true destination. I loved Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's "Wind, Sand and Stars" and became obsessed with the magic that inspired "The Little Prince".

This journey made me realize that there's nowhere unreachable, nothing unachievable, all Little Prince needed was the sun, the moon and the stars to be happy. And that's pretty much all I did out there in the Sahara. I saw the sunrise everyday with my dear camel and counted stars (two shooting stars!) when the sun went down, I never felt more serene and grateful for the universe.

It was the most strenuous trip I've ever embarked on but possibly the most rewarding of all. The Sahara has taught me many things and I'll never forget the Berber tribe that shared their lovely home with us. The starry sky will never look the same to me again.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/400548_10150475715303404_507133403_8673421_100818565_n.jpg

這雙在西雅圖花15美金買的二手靴子陪伴了我去好多國家,穿了兩年破舊不堪但我還是很愛它。

我永遠不會忘記在沙漠裡行走時,裡面總是不小心裝著滿滿的沙子,等到上了駱駝金黃色的沙子又會緩慢的滲出。

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/395621_10150475718058404_507133403_8673441_1601864909_n.jpg

五個小時的飛機+十九個小時翻山越嶺,終於來到撒哈拉。

他帶領著我們橫跨沙漠,接下來的三天都會在沙漠渡過,這裡的駱駝是幸福的,看著Omar如此溫柔對待著它們,把它們當孩子一樣疼惜,

--

It took 5 hours of flight from London and 19 hours of driving across the Morocco atlas to reach the sands of Sahara.

Omar lead us with his lovely camels that he calls his very own babies. We'll be staying with the Berber tribe for the next few days and take a peek at the daily lives in Sahara. I never really realized what I signed up for until I reached the desert and this is just the beginning of the adventure.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/405404_10150475716213404_507133403_8673427_172827040_n.jpg

趕在太陽下山前,趕緊向沙漠出發前往露宿的帳篷,一路上看著金黃色的太陽,沙漠很安靜,聽著駱駝細細的腳步聲,我感動不已。

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It takes around 2 hours to reach our tents to the center of the Sahara before the sunsets. We could hear whispers of the wind, the echoes of the sand dunes, and the steady footsteps of the camels. All was calm and tranquil.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402045_10150475716593404_507133403_8673428_344362850_n.jpg

放眼無際的沙漠,瞬間覺得自己好渺小。

--

The vast desert engulfed me.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/402398_10150475717768404_507133403_8673440_1225341151_n.jpg

這是我第一次騎駱駝,興奮的感覺就像在蘇美島騎大象一樣。我的駱駝溫柔的跪下,等我坐上後又緩緩的站起,那是一種很奇特的感覺,下坡時,總會更小心翼翼的踏步著。

那幾天都是Pikadik載著我往返沙漠,他還是一隻小駱駝所以有時候會想要偷懶小鬧脾氣發出不甘心的聲音,這時候Omar就會輕拍他的後腦勺輕聲幾句,每次看了我都覺得也太可愛了吧。

*Pikadik means"the little one" in Berber dialect ♥

--

This was my first day befriending a camel, I heard that camels will spit at you if they don't like you but the never happened with Pikadik. Pikadik was 5 and still a baby. He whines a lot, especially at the latter half of the journey but Omar would always pat him softly and whisper in his ears to calm him down. It was the sweetest thing.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396930_10150477122273404_507133403_8679118_176222658_n.jpg

一路上都看得到在住在沙漠的小朋友,我對於他們的方向感感到不可思議。

聽說沙漠一到夜晚,因為風沙的關係,地形永遠在改變,

不過我想稱沙漠為家的孩子們,只需要靠星星,月亮,太陽帶路。

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We'd run into kids that live in the desert from time to time. I was fascinated when I saw them running around with no supervision. How are they ever going to get home, I always wondered but I guess if you call the Sahara home, the stars, the moon and the sun will direct you home.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/406485_10150477121533404_507133403_8679110_1725759224_n.jpg

抵達帳篷後駱駝乖巧的在帳篷陪著我們。

--

After arriving at the tent, the camels wait patiently until the next dawn.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/378887_10150477123738404_507133403_8679126_1870414978_n.jpg

看完夕陽後,Omar早已經將晚飯做好,帳篷圍起了一塊風沙吹不進來的地方,他在中間鋪上了厚厚的地毯,一張低矮的小木桌,我們就圍在這裡吃飯,其實在沙漠,天天都是吃典型的摩洛哥食物:Tagine類似向大燉鍋的東西配上couscous 和他們的傳統mint tea。

經過一天的奔波,當熱茶暖了冰僵的手才意識到此刻的我,真的是在撒哈拉沙漠耶。

--

After the sunset, we had dinner together in the tent. We ate Tagine and couscous everyday, never without mint tea of course.

The temperature dropped drastically to around 0C, my hands were numb from riding the camels. I felt the heat from holding the mint tea, and it finally hit me, that I was really finally in the Sahara.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/378080_10150477205008404_507133403_8679402_1272268982_n.jpg

看完星星月亮後,我們回到帳篷旁生火,

大家圍成一個圈圈,Omar 開始唱起了歌打起了鼓。

這樣的日子真的很單純,我好喜歡,沒有多餘的城市雜音,能夠很真切的去感受大自然的一切最原始的感動。

--

After the moonrise, we went back to our tent and started a fire to keep us all warm.

Omar started off with his Berber drum and started singing in his dialect. There was no TV, no internet, no noise, no distraction, only the pureness of nature and amazing company.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385775_10150478924948404_507133403_8685465_613176841_n.jpg

這張照片是iso 3600拍的, 其實當時一片漆黑除了月光甚麼都看不到。氣溫低到我從頭發抖到尾,四肢都僵硬了,直到太陽出來後才稍微解凍了一點。

--
This photo was shot with iso 3600 and heavily curved to see the details. I've uploaded an original in the next photo.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/396855_10150478925608404_507133403_8685470_1673444017_n.jpg

凌晨五點就起床開始趕路,因為要趕在沙漠被太陽曬燙前出發。雖然睡不到幾個小時,可是駱駝們很勤快的繼續載著我們離開沙漠。

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We woke up at 5am to head off before the sun heats up the desert. It was still completely darkness and the only source of light is the moon light.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/381261_10150478925943404_507133403_8685472_1126158426_n.jpg

我們在駱駝上一起等待日出。我已經記不起上一次像這樣靜靜等待太陽升起是甚麼時候了。

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We all sat in silence with our camels waiting for the sunrise. I tried to remember the last time I waited for a sun rise and for the longest time, I couldn't recall.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/407833_10150478926433404_507133403_8685476_318775236_n.jpg

過了一個小時候,天空慢慢的變色。

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/399700_10150478926733404_507133403_8685478_2069687698_n.jpg

彩霞染紅了天空,駱駝沙漠當背景,真的只差一條魔毯了。

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/380033_10150478927493404_507133403_8685488_1310360699_n.jpg

當太陽升上地平線時,一瞬間,整個沙漠閃耀著金黃色。

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When the sun rose above the horizon, the rays lit up the desert and with a blink of an eye, all was golden.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390855_10150481172173404_507133403_8694931_647310836_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/399881_10150481174818404_507133403_8694949_1430224854_n.jpg

我們一一的說再見,用最傳統的方式右掌在胸口輕輕的一敲。Omar要我們答應下次到撒哈拉沙漠要再見面,

Omar sang a song bidding us farewell, he asked us to promise him that when we do return again to the Sahara, we'll look them up. We each said goodbye in the traditional Berber way, a soft pounding gesture on our chest.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/399404_10150481173108404_507133403_8694934_1536759618_n.jpg

Goodbye Pikadik!

在沙漠的那天碰巧月圓天上滿天繁星,靜的剩微風和興奮的心跳聲。天空好透徹好乾淨。我躺下在沙漠上,不確定是因為低溫而顫抖或是感動到不能自己。

在那一刻我忽然好想念身邊所有愛我和我愛的人,忽然很想問候大家是否都安好。

多想要能分享那刻的心情,第一次領悟到,沒被放逐到世界的邊境,怎麼懂得甚麼是思念。

Shukran,撒哈拉。

*Shukran是阿拉伯文的謝謝。
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It was a full moon that day in the desert, there was nothing but silence and the beating of my own heart. I lied down on the soft sand with milky way above me. I saw two shooting stars and made two wishes. I was shaking with adrenaline and was so moved by the grandness of it all.

It was then, I wanted to share this moment with everyone I loved, I know now what "happiness is only real when shared" truly means.

Shukran.
我沒有野心只想要你
駱駝好可愛阿~不過是不是很臭阿?
騎豬去兜風
我朋友去埃及騎駱駝也說很臭,可是可能我是冬天去特別乾燥所以都不覺得有什麼味道。
駱駝超可愛的,摸它的頭它還會一直用汪汪大眼看著我。

駱駝好可愛阿~不過是不是很臭阿?
念你所念
景色相當壯麗

感謝分享:-)
痞性不改
這才是真正沙漠好美啊
當初在印度騎駱駝看沙漠沒這樣美
以後一定要去啊
謝謝分享
你送她回家卻忘記我也怕黑
沙漠很美丽,谢谢分享!
有个问题请教,在沙漠如何照顾相机或镜头?沙粒影响大吗?
不溫柔卻無比愛你
在看過去甚麼都沒有的沙漠,不知道身處在當下的感受應該是很震撼的^^
愛就瘋狂不愛就堅強
應該不是埃及的撒哈拉沙漠,我是去黑白沙漠
埃及的沙漠沙丘不多,都是礫石居多
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3146/2699128819_2cb63ce885_o.jpg

下次想去這種有沙丘的沙漠

可以騎駱駝3天很厲害
我才騎幾小時,第2天大腿內側很痠,推想第一次騎駱駝很顛坡,大腿會不自主用力
沒藥就別說爺有病
我去的那幾天都沒有風沙 所以沒什麼太大的問題 拍完後我會放入相機套 沙粒影響算不大
:)
沙漠很美丽,谢谢分享!
有个问题请教,在沙漠如何照顾相机或镜头?沙粒影响大吗?
撫琴淺唱入君心
我是在西撒哈拉從Morocco進入的

騎駱駝第一天晚上真的很酸 到二三天都酸到痲痹了...:-S

應該不是埃及的撒哈拉沙漠,我是去黑白沙漠
埃及的沙漠沙丘不多,都是礫石居多
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3146/2699128819_2cb63ce885_o.jpg

下次想去這種有沙丘的沙漠

可以騎駱駝3天很厲害
我才騎幾小時,第2天大腿內側很痠,推想第一次騎駱駝很顛坡,大腿會不自主用力
正在載入
這樣的旅程,很適合暫時逃離城市生活...再拋下所有...旅行去... ;-)