柬埔寨的歷史哀愁︰S21及Killing Field殺人場
日後再說
[本文部份照片或會令人感到不安]
Holocaust生還者Primo Levi對於納粹屠殺猶太人一慘劇曾作出這樣評論︰
“If there is one thing sure in this world, it is certainly this: that it will not happen to us a second time."
若果他泉下有知看到1975年的柬埔寨，不知道他會後悔說過這句說話？而我在這次柬埔寨旅行加入了金邊行程，其實最主要還是看Choeung Ek Genocidal Center和Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum。對於未看過波蘭奧斯威辛集中營的我來說，這個應該是一個「入門版」吧。
Killing Field附近的空地
1975年赤柬攻陷金邊，赤柬領導人波爾布特勒令將大批城市人趕至鄉村，並對他們實行勞動改造，同時赤柬大量迫害和殺死前朝官員、知識份子、城市人，務求「創造」一個全新的柬埔寨。結果短短3年時間內，柬埔寨內超過2百萬人死於被殺、過勞、飢餓或一些可治療的疾病，佔當時全國人口五分之一。
今天金邊的Choeung Ek Genocidal Center(Killing field)和Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21)成為赤柬暴行的最有力証據，S21是赤柬審問和迫害犯人的地方，估計有2萬人在此被殺；Killing Field則名符其實是集體行刑場，很多未有在S21被殺的犯人便會運至此地作最終行刑，單是現場的土坑便發掘出近9000具骸骨。
我在售票處購票後領到了一部導賞機，導賞機的內容非常豐富，除了一般的介紹外，機內還包括一些人物的訪問及大屠殺的背景資料，遊客可以對赤柬及大屠殺有一個概括認識。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-blbXknN2078/VOyQSHDvc4I/AAAAAAABHTo/NAX49PbhPOs/s640/DSC_1445.jpg
Killing Field 入口
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5kT2KHXSDoU/VOyNnb_ilTI/AAAAAAABHJo/YEyBGUfW2nY/s640/DSC_1366.jpg
Killing Field入口
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CAnjQ0Mrpsk/VOyQP_ddi5I/AAAAAAABHTg/kGyLmMAks4s/s640/DSC_1444.jpg
放滿骸骨的stupa
進入現場，最觸目的自是那座典雅莊嚴的stupa，其次便是近入口處有數座小建築，那裏有一座是間小博物館，內裏展示了一些文獻、刑具及生還者的感受，另外館內還有播映室播放關於Killing Field的短片。
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VK83vncqUK0/VOyOCHu1waI/AAAAAAABHLI/CQE3UNAsM74/s640/DSC_1378.jpg
Killing Fileld裏的博物館
其中一塊展板列出一些生還者的描述。一名S21的生還者Chum Mey是這樣形容︰
“Even if you raise a pig you have to give food to the pig, but for me I only got a spoonful of very thin gruel."
另一名生還者Mr Vann nath這樣寫道(我看了很多遍才明他的意思)︰
“It is only the comparison of our life during that time because we were entitled the status as human beings although we were detained, then we would be treated different from animals because even animals, domestic animals, would be fed or would be given food and would never been kicked days and nights like that. When human being was deprived of their movement and we were inflicted with tortures, physically and mentally, and that’s why I could I assume that we were between animals and human beings.
…
So with such a view for the last days when I was there, I lost my hope when I compared my detentions to the sector and the zone prison, I could not have any hope. “
步出博物館，遊客會看到眼前的一片空地和大樹。這裏昔日有不少建築，如拘留室、辦公室、貨倉等，但因為這些建築都是木造的，不少都被摧毀了，所以今天我們只會看到一片荒地。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MJ2oqJgB2T0/VOyOEB1EH5I/AAAAAAABHLQ/Jy_RBBfsL3E/s640/DSC_1379.jpg
看似平平無奇的樹也是殺人武器，士兵用帶刺的樹幹來割斷囚犯的喉嚨
在二戰期間，納粹掌握不同的殺人技術，他們用發明了毒氣室，藉此來加快殺人的「效率」；在赤柬，士兵們為了省下珍貴的子彈，於是只好「就地取材」，利用「創意」及當地資源來屠殺身邊的平民，樹幹、繩子、樹刺、刀、鐵棒、土坑，各種明明無害的物品落在赤柬士兵手上都變成了殺人凶器。納粹及赤柬在科技方面有著天壤之別，但從可怕程度來說兩者其實不相伯仲。
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xnGZmi4-nzQ/VOyOJEKJc-I/AAAAAAABHLg/D_GxJo8_8KQ/s640/DSC_1381.jpg
仍未發掘的土地下隨時埋有屍骨
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vDUDoOq3yIA/VOyPpD6a06I/AAAAAAABHQ0/KG98bUHodjE/s640/DSC_1423.jpg
看過數塊簡介昔日建築的牌子後，遊客開始看到一個又一個的土坑，這些就是一個又一個的亂葬崗。工作人員現時仍未完成所有土坑的發掘工作，不記得有牌子還是導賞機有提過︰下雨過後，偶爾也會沖出新的土層，露出當年埋下的骨骸….
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--6lNZJV6Ekk/VOyOVnXIMpI/AAAAAAABHMQ/uX2YYx_2fE4/s640/DSC_1387.jpg
其中一個葬有450名屍體的亂葬坑。不少遊人拋下彩圈表達哀意。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xnYof8wn-pc/VOyORC5fSzI/AAAAAAABHMA/iNOgzaJ5M3g/s640/DSC_1385.jpg
當年發掘現場、骸骨纍纍壘的畫面
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xnYof8wn-pc/VOyORC5fSzI/AAAAAAABHMA/iNOgzaJ5M3g/s640/DSC_1385.jpg
綠綠的田原，是因為獲得前人化作春泥滋潤嗎
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2zlPmS49MLs/VOyO1iRvOmI/AAAAAAABHOE/_x5LZOeqgWk/s640/DSC_1401.jpg
站在前人的屍骸上，我們有沒有從中學到甚麼教訓？
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ptwrWGv29Ls/VOyPDx8tjpI/AAAAAAABHO0/eGhSXbKeUo0/s640/DSC_1407.jpg
昔日被稱為"magic tree"的大樹。當時樹上掛上廣播系列，大聲播放赤柬歌曲，用以掩蓋殺人的聲音和被殺者的慘叫
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qC2zauDb62g/VOyPkSeTgfI/AAAAAAABHQk/bH9IQszM11I/s640/DSC_1421.jpg
坑內發掘出的衣服
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赤柬深信「斬草除根」，不少剛出生的嬰兒也難逃毒手，一些嬰兒就是被大力撞死於該樹上
走過一個又一個土坑，遊人會被引領至Killing Field的最後一站︰佛塔。外觀看它和一般的佛塔無異，但是進入佛塔後遊客都會對眼前堆積如山的骸骨所震懾︰那一雙雙空洞的眼眶、一排排殘留著牙齒的顎骨、那或白或楬的頭顱骨，都讓人感到不寒而慄。他們就是在這個亂葬崗中發掘出來的骸骨，是一個個曾經有血有肉、會笑會哭的人、但只因生在錯誤的時間和不幸的國度，然後因一些莫須有的「罪名」便被處以極刑。對於其他仍埋在地底的受難者來說，他們已經是較為「幸運」，能夠被工作人員發掘出來，經過處理後安置在佛塔內得以安息，但更多死難者仍然長埋於土地下，等著不知何年何月後能夠重見天日。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tLLmJQLiZf0/VOyPPk5KTEI/AAAAAAABHPc/l0L30pqYLUM/s640/DSC_1412.jpg
安放骸骨的stupa
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ug-qkN6Tqtc/VOyNzgEQ_pI/AAAAAAABHKY/xQBaxIRANcM/s640/DSC_1372.jpg
安放了骸骨的stupa
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vvaemxlE00M/VOyQMput60I/AAAAAAABHTQ/YPemaUeTIcg/s640/DSC_1442.jpg
stupa內收藏了數千個骸骨。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MSzfiYu8LyQ/VOyPu2kY6DI/AAAAAAABHRM/O7c7-driS_s/s640/DSC_1426.jpg
不同類型的殺人工具
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c8iqNC5-RSs/VOyP2UeQ6eI/AAAAAAABHRw/vzyORWmYRk0/s640/DSC_1430.jpg
其他行凶工具
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塔內有十七層，底下盛的是頭臚，中上層盛其他骨頭，空洞的眼眶中彷彿傳來昔日現場受害者們的淚水
眼前的行刑場故然令人感到心寒，但赤柬的罪行還不止如此。我想起去旅行前看的"First They Killed My Father"，作者Loung Ung在五歲時經歷了赤柬的統治，她一家九人(父母加七名子女)最後只有五人捱過這三年大屠殺歲月，父母及一名妹妹先後被擄走，之後音訊全無；一名姐姐則病死。Loung最終逃至美國，並將經歷寫成該書︰
在赤柬「解放」金邊後，Loung一家人被驅趕至鄉村，她是這樣形容村內各個階層︰
Though we are all supposed to be equal, there are nonetheless three levels of citizenship in the village. The first-class citizenry comprises the chief, who has authority over the whole village, his aides, and the Khmer Rouge soldiers. They are all base people and the Khmer Rouge cadres. They have the power to teach, police, judge, and execute. They make all decisions: work details, food rations per family, severity of punishment. They are the eyes and ears of the Angkar at the local level. They report all activities to the Angkar and have full power to enforce the Angkar’s law.
Then there are the base people. If the first-class citizens are the all-powerful brutal teachers, the base people are the bullies who work closely with them. Though they are not omnipotent like the first-class citizenry, they lead almost autonomous lives away from the prying eyes of the soldiers. They live in their own houses on the other side of the village, separate from us. The base people do not eat communally or work with the new people. However, they are often seen on our side of the village, patrolling the area and telling us what to do. Many are the village, patrolling the area and telling us what to do. Many are related to the first-class citizens and keep the chief informed of our day-to-day activities.
The new people are considered the lowest in the village structure. They have no freedom of speech, and must obey the other classes. The new people are those who lived in cities and have been forced out to the villages. They cannot farm like the rural people. They are suspected of having no allegiance to the Angkar and must be kept under an ever watchful eye for signs of rebellion. They have led corrupt lives and must be trained to be productive workers. To instill a sense of loyalty to the Angkar and break what the Khmer Rouge views as an inadequate urban work ethic, the new people are given the hardest work and the longest hours.
Even among the new people there are different classes. Those who were formally students or involved in professions such as civil service, medicine, art, or teaching are considered morally corrupt. Then it’s the ethnic Vietnamese, Chinese, and other minority groups who are considered racially corrupt. When asked about jobs in their former lives, the new people lie and claim to be poor peasants, like Pa did, or small shopkeepers. In the Khmer Rouge agrarian society, only good workers are valuable, all others are expendable. Thus, the new people must work extremely hard to prove they are worth more alive than dead. Pa says because we are different—Chinese-Cambodian—we will have to work harder than the others.
在村內，所有物資都需要共享︰
man in our village came upon a stray dog in the road one day. The poor dog did not have much meat on it, but the man killed and ate it anyway. The next day, the soldiers arrived at the man’s door. He cried and begged for mercy, but they did not pay any attention to him. He raised his arms as a shield, but they did not protect him from the blows of the soldiers’ fists and rifle stocks. He was never seen again after the soldiers took him away. His crime was that he did not share the dog meat with the community.
為了生存，Loung的哥哥成為村長的孩子的「玩伴」，以換得村長的殘餘飯菜︰
Over the next few weeks, Kim and the chief’s children become fast friends, and they allow Kim to bring us their leftovers every night. It is clear from the red marks on his face, cheeks, and legs that Kim suffers abuses from his new “friends” who spit at him and beat him. However, at ten years old, Kim knows he has to endure their cruelty to help feed his family.
勤奮工作的Loung被送到高一級的訓練營，接受軍事訓練︰
It is very easy to train someone to use weapons,” she replies, “but to train the mind is much more difficult. I have been training your mind all these months. I have tried my best to place Pol Pot’s words in your head and to tell you the truth about the Youns. Children must be taught to follow orders without hesitation, without question, and to shoot and kill even their traitor parents. That is the first step in the training.”
這些經歷往往都如夢魘般纏繞著每一個經歷赤柬年代的生還者。而最虛假的是，當領導者口口聲聲指他們正締造一個平等、沒階層的理想社會，現實中卻只是打破了舊有的權力體制、然後換成自己一方人馬掌權及享受利益。揭穿了冠冕堂皇的口號後，餘下的只有自私的權力鬥爭及冷酷無情的人性。
看過Killing Field後，我乘tuk tuk繼續我這天的「大屠殺」行程─S21。這間昔日的學校在1975至78年間成為審問和迫害柬埔寨人民的審判所，如果說Killing Field是一個只有死亡的終站，那麼S21則稍為多些「人氣」──不是因為那裏多些活人或活命機會較高，而是因為犯人往往都要在這裏被拘留較長的時間，他們在這裏留下更多悲慘故事。展館也就此展示更多犯人們生前的點滴，讓人更感受到他們和你和我一樣都曾經是相似的平凡人，但最後卻慘遭殺害。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y5Hi6A9GWq8/VOyS4g1WHYI/AAAAAAABHeE/KnBfVyrRsZ8/s640/DSC_1449.jpg
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum，亦被稱為S21
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j12_IpbHaUg/VOyQXUiDEpI/AAAAAAABHUA/4HP4EsUm5hw/s640/DSC_1450.jpg
S21前身是一所學校，在赤柬執政期間這裹變成了審問疑犯的煉獄
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lRteRBLKAUU/VOyQZ91xtBI/AAAAAAABHUI/B9n_B5iQYP4/s640/DSC_1451.jpg
外界估計在赤柬統治期間，S21處決了14000至21000人，人們被送到這裏進行「審訊」──所謂的審訊只是一種形式，被拉到這裏的大多數人其實已被判有罪。更重要的是，赤柬官員還會透過嚴刑來逼使這些「罪犯」供出更多「同犯」，這樣他們便可以逮捕更多「犯人」，所以他們嚴禁殺死未認罪、未招供的「罪犯」，也防止「罪犯」們自殺，以免赤柬官員失去線索來斬草除根。完成招供後，「罪犯」或會在S21被處決，又或被送至Killing Field被集體殺死。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CK2zYY_MsWo/VOyQ8dRaLvI/AAAAAAABHWQ/A19EfJBKYQI/s640/DSC_1468.jpg
S21由數座校舍組成
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lzYbG7AwsjU/VOyQeDeutVI/AAAAAAABHUY/kw7DP5-LB24/s640/DSC_1453.jpg
一幢幢簡單的校舍，化作一間間幽深的囚室或虐待犯人的房間
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JAdUxCbYgQ4/VOyQydHJr9I/AAAAAAABHVo/Ug6fubd5l4s/s640/DSC_1463.jpg
校舍外的操場
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_6JCL5yJKiY/VOyQkfg4otI/AAAAAAABHUw/58N9O2Xu74Y/s640/DSC_1456.jpg
S21規條
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TBnYKDUUqg8/VOyRNYTVB6I/AAAAAAABHXU/jMQW0vJ0OG4/s640/DSC_1476.jpg
S21被解放時，2名獲救的小孩
外界一般認為S21最終只有7名生還者，但根據文獻顯示，至少179人可以僥倖地在審訊過後獲釋，而在越南軍隊解放S21時，也有23名囚犯獲救，所以生還人數應不止7人。其中兩名生還者Bou Meng及Chum Mey都各自將他們在S21的經歷結集成書，參觀當天他們也有在現場，並推銷著他們的著作及和別人合照，我看到這個畫面總是覺得有些不適應，大概是沒有料到作者會在現場吧。
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Gj1VnSd916A/VOyQ0VIsbGI/AAAAAAABHVw/iNtF83HypN0/s640/DSC_1464.jpg
監倉外的走道
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bCDRDnJKSU4/VOyQ2X_Tw7I/AAAAAAABHV4/ZT6Z5pwccfk/s640/DSC_1465.jpg
獨立的審問室
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZNBMcLqIhj4/VOyQqj2R2CI/AAAAAAABHVI/a8ulBcVBTE0/s640/DSC_1459.jpg
大概是手鐐或腳鐐
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2UpjL_pTIHE/VOyQ6f3_69I/AAAAAAABHWI/Ica3oGVCV5w/s640/DSC_1467.jpg
困在裏面的囚犯大概會覺得外面的藍天遙不可及(如果他/她還能看到的話)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VN60Q_INbF0/VOyRALOQXLI/AAAAAAABHWg/LE0uatFOhA4/s640/DSC_1470.jpg
扣上腳鐐的犯人，這人好像還是前商務部長
如果說赤柬的暴行讓人感到心寒，那麼在暴行發生後，國際社會對赤柬大屠殺的反應同樣讓人覺得可怕(如果不是更可怕)。70年代算是個通訊科技剛開始起飛、但尚未算十分發達的年代，加上赤柬統攻陷金邊時，外國人大多已撤離柬埔寨，赤柬管治後也很少邀請外國使節來柬埔寨訪問，所以外界當時不太掌握柬埔寨的情況。很可惜的是，1978年一個左翼的瑞典團體到訪柬埔寨，他們參加了赤柬安排的宣傳之旅，並相信赤柬真的在改造這個國家成為共產主義天堂。訪問結束後，不少團員表態支持赤柬，甚至當越南軍隊陸續發表赤柬屠殺的証據時，瑞典團員甚至向國際媒體發佈支持赤柬的訊息，並反對越南的入侵。
與此同時，政治上的考量亦左右了大國如何對待赤柬大屠殺。中國一向都支持赤柬，而敗走越南的美國對於越南入侵柬埔寨一事非常感冒，所以兩國都對大力反對越南的入侵，並刻意冷淡對待赤柬大屠殺的証據。在兩國的支持下，赤柬的勢力一直都殘存於柬泰邊境及附近的省份，赤柬的代表甚至一直保有柬埔寨在聯合國的席位，直至1982年才被取替。在國際關係上，利益與權力永遠才是皇道，公義和人道要麼只是一個幌子，要麼只是一個微不足道、可以被放棄的道德底線。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Grj9oD28yBo/VOyREUjPr7I/AAAAAAABHW0/McHOMwUve5c/s640/DSC_1472.jpg
綽號為Duch的Kang Kek Iew是赤柬執政期間的內政安全部首長，是少數(如果不是唯一)認罪的赤柬高官
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SY18WxrL3ZY/VOyRIVoyJvI/AAAAAAABHXE/0B58Stffz7I/s640/DSC_1474.jpg
這些死者照片只佔眾多死者的冰山一角
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nBIoCz123fk/VOyRY2oAxqI/AAAAAAABHX8/xtnsdq4ouNY/s640/DSC_1481.jpg
男的女的一概不能倖免
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hlayB-h_cok/VOyRbyDJFVI/AAAAAAABHYE/JLBpWP57uqg/s640/DSC_1482.jpg
每名受害者都有一檔案，記載他們的簡單生平和「罪狀」。Duch在撤離S21前未能銷毀這些文件，成為日後檢控他和赤柬的重要証據。
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Er6kA9muO1U/VOyRWikkzuI/AAAAAAABHX0/ZPZBiEjgGeA/s640/DSC_1480.jpg
犯人被虐待的照片
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b1hFnMXlVBQ/VOyRdb_4LuI/AAAAAAABHYM/gPFDHZj9qKE/s640/DSC_1483.jpg
每名受害者都要坐在這椅子拍照，然後量身高
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jTIR1lx7lV8/VOyRiC5xqUI/AAAAAAABHYc/k1cVZqBP5i4/s640/DSC_1485.jpg
腳鐐
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ubg_b29d0Rs/VOyRLcsRAqI/AAAAAAABHXM/Pscw2RIgxEo/s640/DSC_1475.jpg
不見天日的時光，你還能抱著希望活下去嗎
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DmhrLihAyHM/VOyRPwftGoI/AAAAAAABHXc/0Ch3FyzJdkg/s640/DSC_1477.jpg
原來是運動用途的木架被用作倒吊犯人，犯人昏迷後便被放進水中以水灌醒他
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pghohFoE2qU/VOyRnm6jsSI/AAAAAAABHYs/UmvzEhvLZcE/s640/DSC_1487.jpg
其中一棟建築物外掛上了鐵絲網。作用不是怕囚犯會逃跑，而是怕他們會跳樓自盡。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b43NQoiR9l0/VOyR7n4xV1I/AAAAAAABHaE/yDUaMj6yvWc/s640/DSC_1498.jpg
昔日的課室變成可怕的修羅場
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WqtLuYbdE5E/VOyRrauiBDI/AAAAAAABHY8/Eg8r7wdYGds/s640/DSC_1489.jpg
石材造的獨立囚室
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zd-pRGPfu9Q/VOyRtgolGRI/AAAAAAABHZE/nNMOj_RTp4k/s640/DSC_1490.jpg
囚室很小，有些甚至沒有窗
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vOTTkK6BRrc/VOyRy6W6S4I/AAAAAAABHZc/MzE57cBtm6A/s640/DSC_1493.jpg
這麼近卻那麼遠的藍天
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PDDW6HkrfT0/VOySIB4tsvI/AAAAAAABHa8/-EHgYF6JIz4/s640/DSC_1505.jpg
木造的囚室
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6_1MBmIy3-Q/VOyR9MNITZI/AAAAAAABHaM/c9CIImInNuY/s640/DSC_1499.jpg
木囚室的空間更小
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PABUwxGTGc4/VOySB3dxdhI/AAAAAAABHak/UZwASrRwhbc/s640/DSC_1502.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQpF6zWPxXM/VOySRfhF7JI/AAAAAAABHbk/4QpuBzKqyS8/s640/DSC_1510.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hmk06wP1J0Y/VOySTfOtnUI/AAAAAAABHbs/aloxAmkT2Q0/s640/DSC_1511.jpg
昔日的血跡仍留在地上
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jKRm_JU1TfE/VOySnN-gYXI/AAAAAAABHdE/zBizRAdU4aM/s640/DSC_1522.jpg
各種行刑用具
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qyKRYkyu21Q/VOyS0tMB7aI/AAAAAAABHd0/ln_bvDt_TUU/s640/DSC_1528.jpg
昔日的腥風血雨已被煙沒在歷史裏，所以大屠殺的慘劇還是一而再、再而三地發生
參觀當天陽光明媚，彷彿在撫慰在場每一個參觀者的心靈，場內沒有了喧鬧、沒有了selfie、沒有了交談，有的只是一張張帶點木然的表情，大家都沒法瞭解慘劇的內容。當我們看到人類的醜惡又一次赤裸裸地展露於面前時，我們沒法掩飾心底裏的不安︰是甚麼樣的環境令人可以放下所有道德枷鎖，不顧一切地屠殺身邊的人呢？若果我們在1975置身於這個國度，我們到底會成為劊子手，還是選擇成為刀下魂？
這又讓我想起Zimbardo教授所寫的《路西法效應》，真正讓慘劇發生、並且讓它持續擴大的，就是一個個沒有站出來、冷眼旁觀的平常人，我這樣說不是批評那些存活下來的柬埔寨人在當年苟且偷生是如何的懦弱──畢竟若果我在他們的位置恐怕也會採取同樣的行動。但是客觀地看，波爾布特一個人是沒法殺死二百萬人，而是透過一名名赤柬士兵的協助及其他人默許下完成的。這份平凡之惡(banality of evil)，就是我們要記著的教訓。當然從近代歷史來看，人類似乎還未從這堂歷史課中緊記這個教訓，否則大規模的屠殺便不會繼續在盧旺達、南斯拉夫及達爾科等地出現，恐怕人類距離修畢這門課還有很長時間。
延伸閱讀︰
盧旺達大屠殺的故事︰《We wish to inform you that tomorrow we will be killed with our families – Stories from Rwanda》 (https://horrypong.wordpress.com/2014/03/24/we-wish-to-inform-you-that-tomorrow-we-will-be-killed-with-our-families-stories-from-rwanda/)
平凡之惡︰《路西法效應》 (https://horrypong.wordpress.com/2013/05/12/%E3%80%8A%E8%B7%AF%E8%A5%BF%E6%B3%95%E6%95%88%E6%87%89%E3%80%8B/)
更多柬埔寨遊記請看--> https://horrycambodia.wordpress.com/
其他遊記--> https://horrypong.wordpress.com/旅遊誌/
Holocaust生還者Primo Levi對於納粹屠殺猶太人一慘劇曾作出這樣評論︰
“If there is one thing sure in this world, it is certainly this: that it will not happen to us a second time."
若果他泉下有知看到1975年的柬埔寨，不知道他會後悔說過這句說話？而我在這次柬埔寨旅行加入了金邊行程，其實最主要還是看Choeung Ek Genocidal Center和Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum。對於未看過波蘭奧斯威辛集中營的我來說，這個應該是一個「入門版」吧。
Killing Field附近的空地
1975年赤柬攻陷金邊，赤柬領導人波爾布特勒令將大批城市人趕至鄉村，並對他們實行勞動改造，同時赤柬大量迫害和殺死前朝官員、知識份子、城市人，務求「創造」一個全新的柬埔寨。結果短短3年時間內，柬埔寨內超過2百萬人死於被殺、過勞、飢餓或一些可治療的疾病，佔當時全國人口五分之一。
今天金邊的Choeung Ek Genocidal Center(Killing field)和Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21)成為赤柬暴行的最有力証據，S21是赤柬審問和迫害犯人的地方，估計有2萬人在此被殺；Killing Field則名符其實是集體行刑場，很多未有在S21被殺的犯人便會運至此地作最終行刑，單是現場的土坑便發掘出近9000具骸骨。
我在售票處購票後領到了一部導賞機，導賞機的內容非常豐富，除了一般的介紹外，機內還包括一些人物的訪問及大屠殺的背景資料，遊客可以對赤柬及大屠殺有一個概括認識。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-blbXknN2078/VOyQSHDvc4I/AAAAAAABHTo/NAX49PbhPOs/s640/DSC_1445.jpg
Killing Field 入口
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5kT2KHXSDoU/VOyNnb_ilTI/AAAAAAABHJo/YEyBGUfW2nY/s640/DSC_1366.jpg
Killing Field入口
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CAnjQ0Mrpsk/VOyQP_ddi5I/AAAAAAABHTg/kGyLmMAks4s/s640/DSC_1444.jpg
放滿骸骨的stupa
進入現場，最觸目的自是那座典雅莊嚴的stupa，其次便是近入口處有數座小建築，那裏有一座是間小博物館，內裏展示了一些文獻、刑具及生還者的感受，另外館內還有播映室播放關於Killing Field的短片。
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VK83vncqUK0/VOyOCHu1waI/AAAAAAABHLI/CQE3UNAsM74/s640/DSC_1378.jpg
Killing Fileld裏的博物館
其中一塊展板列出一些生還者的描述。一名S21的生還者Chum Mey是這樣形容︰
“Even if you raise a pig you have to give food to the pig, but for me I only got a spoonful of very thin gruel."
另一名生還者Mr Vann nath這樣寫道(我看了很多遍才明他的意思)︰
“It is only the comparison of our life during that time because we were entitled the status as human beings although we were detained, then we would be treated different from animals because even animals, domestic animals, would be fed or would be given food and would never been kicked days and nights like that. When human being was deprived of their movement and we were inflicted with tortures, physically and mentally, and that’s why I could I assume that we were between animals and human beings.
…
So with such a view for the last days when I was there, I lost my hope when I compared my detentions to the sector and the zone prison, I could not have any hope. “
步出博物館，遊客會看到眼前的一片空地和大樹。這裏昔日有不少建築，如拘留室、辦公室、貨倉等，但因為這些建築都是木造的，不少都被摧毀了，所以今天我們只會看到一片荒地。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MJ2oqJgB2T0/VOyOEB1EH5I/AAAAAAABHLQ/Jy_RBBfsL3E/s640/DSC_1379.jpg
看似平平無奇的樹也是殺人武器，士兵用帶刺的樹幹來割斷囚犯的喉嚨
在二戰期間，納粹掌握不同的殺人技術，他們用發明了毒氣室，藉此來加快殺人的「效率」；在赤柬，士兵們為了省下珍貴的子彈，於是只好「就地取材」，利用「創意」及當地資源來屠殺身邊的平民，樹幹、繩子、樹刺、刀、鐵棒、土坑，各種明明無害的物品落在赤柬士兵手上都變成了殺人凶器。納粹及赤柬在科技方面有著天壤之別，但從可怕程度來說兩者其實不相伯仲。
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xnGZmi4-nzQ/VOyOJEKJc-I/AAAAAAABHLg/D_GxJo8_8KQ/s640/DSC_1381.jpg
仍未發掘的土地下隨時埋有屍骨
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vDUDoOq3yIA/VOyPpD6a06I/AAAAAAABHQ0/KG98bUHodjE/s640/DSC_1423.jpg
看過數塊簡介昔日建築的牌子後，遊客開始看到一個又一個的土坑，這些就是一個又一個的亂葬崗。工作人員現時仍未完成所有土坑的發掘工作，不記得有牌子還是導賞機有提過︰下雨過後，偶爾也會沖出新的土層，露出當年埋下的骨骸….
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--6lNZJV6Ekk/VOyOVnXIMpI/AAAAAAABHMQ/uX2YYx_2fE4/s640/DSC_1387.jpg
其中一個葬有450名屍體的亂葬坑。不少遊人拋下彩圈表達哀意。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xnYof8wn-pc/VOyORC5fSzI/AAAAAAABHMA/iNOgzaJ5M3g/s640/DSC_1385.jpg
當年發掘現場、骸骨纍纍壘的畫面
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xnYof8wn-pc/VOyORC5fSzI/AAAAAAABHMA/iNOgzaJ5M3g/s640/DSC_1385.jpg
綠綠的田原，是因為獲得前人化作春泥滋潤嗎
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2zlPmS49MLs/VOyO1iRvOmI/AAAAAAABHOE/_x5LZOeqgWk/s640/DSC_1401.jpg
站在前人的屍骸上，我們有沒有從中學到甚麼教訓？
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ptwrWGv29Ls/VOyPDx8tjpI/AAAAAAABHO0/eGhSXbKeUo0/s640/DSC_1407.jpg
昔日被稱為"magic tree"的大樹。當時樹上掛上廣播系列，大聲播放赤柬歌曲，用以掩蓋殺人的聲音和被殺者的慘叫
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qC2zauDb62g/VOyPkSeTgfI/AAAAAAABHQk/bH9IQszM11I/s640/DSC_1421.jpg
坑內發掘出的衣服
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2EHj53gi-4s/VOyPR2bbffI/AAAAAAABHPk/vNqHxje3tZg/s640/DSC_1413.jpg
赤柬深信「斬草除根」，不少剛出生的嬰兒也難逃毒手，一些嬰兒就是被大力撞死於該樹上
走過一個又一個土坑，遊人會被引領至Killing Field的最後一站︰佛塔。外觀看它和一般的佛塔無異，但是進入佛塔後遊客都會對眼前堆積如山的骸骨所震懾︰那一雙雙空洞的眼眶、一排排殘留著牙齒的顎骨、那或白或楬的頭顱骨，都讓人感到不寒而慄。他們就是在這個亂葬崗中發掘出來的骸骨，是一個個曾經有血有肉、會笑會哭的人、但只因生在錯誤的時間和不幸的國度，然後因一些莫須有的「罪名」便被處以極刑。對於其他仍埋在地底的受難者來說，他們已經是較為「幸運」，能夠被工作人員發掘出來，經過處理後安置在佛塔內得以安息，但更多死難者仍然長埋於土地下，等著不知何年何月後能夠重見天日。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tLLmJQLiZf0/VOyPPk5KTEI/AAAAAAABHPc/l0L30pqYLUM/s640/DSC_1412.jpg
安放骸骨的stupa
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ug-qkN6Tqtc/VOyNzgEQ_pI/AAAAAAABHKY/xQBaxIRANcM/s640/DSC_1372.jpg
安放了骸骨的stupa
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vvaemxlE00M/VOyQMput60I/AAAAAAABHTQ/YPemaUeTIcg/s640/DSC_1442.jpg
stupa內收藏了數千個骸骨。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MSzfiYu8LyQ/VOyPu2kY6DI/AAAAAAABHRM/O7c7-driS_s/s640/DSC_1426.jpg
不同類型的殺人工具
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c8iqNC5-RSs/VOyP2UeQ6eI/AAAAAAABHRw/vzyORWmYRk0/s640/DSC_1430.jpg
其他行凶工具
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xhzLo1yijDs/VOyQKUXlKOI/AAAAAAABHTI/xtnwWusD5Ss/s640/DSC_1441.jpg
塔內有十七層，底下盛的是頭臚，中上層盛其他骨頭，空洞的眼眶中彷彿傳來昔日現場受害者們的淚水
眼前的行刑場故然令人感到心寒，但赤柬的罪行還不止如此。我想起去旅行前看的"First They Killed My Father"，作者Loung Ung在五歲時經歷了赤柬的統治，她一家九人(父母加七名子女)最後只有五人捱過這三年大屠殺歲月，父母及一名妹妹先後被擄走，之後音訊全無；一名姐姐則病死。Loung最終逃至美國，並將經歷寫成該書︰
在赤柬「解放」金邊後，Loung一家人被驅趕至鄉村，她是這樣形容村內各個階層︰
Though we are all supposed to be equal, there are nonetheless three levels of citizenship in the village. The first-class citizenry comprises the chief, who has authority over the whole village, his aides, and the Khmer Rouge soldiers. They are all base people and the Khmer Rouge cadres. They have the power to teach, police, judge, and execute. They make all decisions: work details, food rations per family, severity of punishment. They are the eyes and ears of the Angkar at the local level. They report all activities to the Angkar and have full power to enforce the Angkar’s law.
Then there are the base people. If the first-class citizens are the all-powerful brutal teachers, the base people are the bullies who work closely with them. Though they are not omnipotent like the first-class citizenry, they lead almost autonomous lives away from the prying eyes of the soldiers. They live in their own houses on the other side of the village, separate from us. The base people do not eat communally or work with the new people. However, they are often seen on our side of the village, patrolling the area and telling us what to do. Many are the village, patrolling the area and telling us what to do. Many are related to the first-class citizens and keep the chief informed of our day-to-day activities.
The new people are considered the lowest in the village structure. They have no freedom of speech, and must obey the other classes. The new people are those who lived in cities and have been forced out to the villages. They cannot farm like the rural people. They are suspected of having no allegiance to the Angkar and must be kept under an ever watchful eye for signs of rebellion. They have led corrupt lives and must be trained to be productive workers. To instill a sense of loyalty to the Angkar and break what the Khmer Rouge views as an inadequate urban work ethic, the new people are given the hardest work and the longest hours.
Even among the new people there are different classes. Those who were formally students or involved in professions such as civil service, medicine, art, or teaching are considered morally corrupt. Then it’s the ethnic Vietnamese, Chinese, and other minority groups who are considered racially corrupt. When asked about jobs in their former lives, the new people lie and claim to be poor peasants, like Pa did, or small shopkeepers. In the Khmer Rouge agrarian society, only good workers are valuable, all others are expendable. Thus, the new people must work extremely hard to prove they are worth more alive than dead. Pa says because we are different—Chinese-Cambodian—we will have to work harder than the others.
在村內，所有物資都需要共享︰
man in our village came upon a stray dog in the road one day. The poor dog did not have much meat on it, but the man killed and ate it anyway. The next day, the soldiers arrived at the man’s door. He cried and begged for mercy, but they did not pay any attention to him. He raised his arms as a shield, but they did not protect him from the blows of the soldiers’ fists and rifle stocks. He was never seen again after the soldiers took him away. His crime was that he did not share the dog meat with the community.
為了生存，Loung的哥哥成為村長的孩子的「玩伴」，以換得村長的殘餘飯菜︰
Over the next few weeks, Kim and the chief’s children become fast friends, and they allow Kim to bring us their leftovers every night. It is clear from the red marks on his face, cheeks, and legs that Kim suffers abuses from his new “friends” who spit at him and beat him. However, at ten years old, Kim knows he has to endure their cruelty to help feed his family.
勤奮工作的Loung被送到高一級的訓練營，接受軍事訓練︰
It is very easy to train someone to use weapons,” she replies, “but to train the mind is much more difficult. I have been training your mind all these months. I have tried my best to place Pol Pot’s words in your head and to tell you the truth about the Youns. Children must be taught to follow orders without hesitation, without question, and to shoot and kill even their traitor parents. That is the first step in the training.”
這些經歷往往都如夢魘般纏繞著每一個經歷赤柬年代的生還者。而最虛假的是，當領導者口口聲聲指他們正締造一個平等、沒階層的理想社會，現實中卻只是打破了舊有的權力體制、然後換成自己一方人馬掌權及享受利益。揭穿了冠冕堂皇的口號後，餘下的只有自私的權力鬥爭及冷酷無情的人性。
看過Killing Field後，我乘tuk tuk繼續我這天的「大屠殺」行程─S21。這間昔日的學校在1975至78年間成為審問和迫害柬埔寨人民的審判所，如果說Killing Field是一個只有死亡的終站，那麼S21則稍為多些「人氣」──不是因為那裏多些活人或活命機會較高，而是因為犯人往往都要在這裏被拘留較長的時間，他們在這裏留下更多悲慘故事。展館也就此展示更多犯人們生前的點滴，讓人更感受到他們和你和我一樣都曾經是相似的平凡人，但最後卻慘遭殺害。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y5Hi6A9GWq8/VOyS4g1WHYI/AAAAAAABHeE/KnBfVyrRsZ8/s640/DSC_1449.jpg
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum，亦被稱為S21
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j12_IpbHaUg/VOyQXUiDEpI/AAAAAAABHUA/4HP4EsUm5hw/s640/DSC_1450.jpg
S21前身是一所學校，在赤柬執政期間這裹變成了審問疑犯的煉獄
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lRteRBLKAUU/VOyQZ91xtBI/AAAAAAABHUI/B9n_B5iQYP4/s640/DSC_1451.jpg
外界估計在赤柬統治期間，S21處決了14000至21000人，人們被送到這裏進行「審訊」──所謂的審訊只是一種形式，被拉到這裏的大多數人其實已被判有罪。更重要的是，赤柬官員還會透過嚴刑來逼使這些「罪犯」供出更多「同犯」，這樣他們便可以逮捕更多「犯人」，所以他們嚴禁殺死未認罪、未招供的「罪犯」，也防止「罪犯」們自殺，以免赤柬官員失去線索來斬草除根。完成招供後，「罪犯」或會在S21被處決，又或被送至Killing Field被集體殺死。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CK2zYY_MsWo/VOyQ8dRaLvI/AAAAAAABHWQ/A19EfJBKYQI/s640/DSC_1468.jpg
S21由數座校舍組成
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lzYbG7AwsjU/VOyQeDeutVI/AAAAAAABHUY/kw7DP5-LB24/s640/DSC_1453.jpg
一幢幢簡單的校舍，化作一間間幽深的囚室或虐待犯人的房間
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JAdUxCbYgQ4/VOyQydHJr9I/AAAAAAABHVo/Ug6fubd5l4s/s640/DSC_1463.jpg
校舍外的操場
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_6JCL5yJKiY/VOyQkfg4otI/AAAAAAABHUw/58N9O2Xu74Y/s640/DSC_1456.jpg
S21規條
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TBnYKDUUqg8/VOyRNYTVB6I/AAAAAAABHXU/jMQW0vJ0OG4/s640/DSC_1476.jpg
S21被解放時，2名獲救的小孩
外界一般認為S21最終只有7名生還者，但根據文獻顯示，至少179人可以僥倖地在審訊過後獲釋，而在越南軍隊解放S21時，也有23名囚犯獲救，所以生還人數應不止7人。其中兩名生還者Bou Meng及Chum Mey都各自將他們在S21的經歷結集成書，參觀當天他們也有在現場，並推銷著他們的著作及和別人合照，我看到這個畫面總是覺得有些不適應，大概是沒有料到作者會在現場吧。
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Gj1VnSd916A/VOyQ0VIsbGI/AAAAAAABHVw/iNtF83HypN0/s640/DSC_1464.jpg
監倉外的走道
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bCDRDnJKSU4/VOyQ2X_Tw7I/AAAAAAABHV4/ZT6Z5pwccfk/s640/DSC_1465.jpg
獨立的審問室
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZNBMcLqIhj4/VOyQqj2R2CI/AAAAAAABHVI/a8ulBcVBTE0/s640/DSC_1459.jpg
大概是手鐐或腳鐐
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2UpjL_pTIHE/VOyQ6f3_69I/AAAAAAABHWI/Ica3oGVCV5w/s640/DSC_1467.jpg
困在裏面的囚犯大概會覺得外面的藍天遙不可及(如果他/她還能看到的話)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VN60Q_INbF0/VOyRALOQXLI/AAAAAAABHWg/LE0uatFOhA4/s640/DSC_1470.jpg
扣上腳鐐的犯人，這人好像還是前商務部長
如果說赤柬的暴行讓人感到心寒，那麼在暴行發生後，國際社會對赤柬大屠殺的反應同樣讓人覺得可怕(如果不是更可怕)。70年代算是個通訊科技剛開始起飛、但尚未算十分發達的年代，加上赤柬統攻陷金邊時，外國人大多已撤離柬埔寨，赤柬管治後也很少邀請外國使節來柬埔寨訪問，所以外界當時不太掌握柬埔寨的情況。很可惜的是，1978年一個左翼的瑞典團體到訪柬埔寨，他們參加了赤柬安排的宣傳之旅，並相信赤柬真的在改造這個國家成為共產主義天堂。訪問結束後，不少團員表態支持赤柬，甚至當越南軍隊陸續發表赤柬屠殺的証據時，瑞典團員甚至向國際媒體發佈支持赤柬的訊息，並反對越南的入侵。
與此同時，政治上的考量亦左右了大國如何對待赤柬大屠殺。中國一向都支持赤柬，而敗走越南的美國對於越南入侵柬埔寨一事非常感冒，所以兩國都對大力反對越南的入侵，並刻意冷淡對待赤柬大屠殺的証據。在兩國的支持下，赤柬的勢力一直都殘存於柬泰邊境及附近的省份，赤柬的代表甚至一直保有柬埔寨在聯合國的席位，直至1982年才被取替。在國際關係上，利益與權力永遠才是皇道，公義和人道要麼只是一個幌子，要麼只是一個微不足道、可以被放棄的道德底線。
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Grj9oD28yBo/VOyREUjPr7I/AAAAAAABHW0/McHOMwUve5c/s640/DSC_1472.jpg
綽號為Duch的Kang Kek Iew是赤柬執政期間的內政安全部首長，是少數(如果不是唯一)認罪的赤柬高官
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SY18WxrL3ZY/VOyRIVoyJvI/AAAAAAABHXE/0B58Stffz7I/s640/DSC_1474.jpg
這些死者照片只佔眾多死者的冰山一角
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nBIoCz123fk/VOyRY2oAxqI/AAAAAAABHX8/xtnsdq4ouNY/s640/DSC_1481.jpg
男的女的一概不能倖免
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hlayB-h_cok/VOyRbyDJFVI/AAAAAAABHYE/JLBpWP57uqg/s640/DSC_1482.jpg
每名受害者都有一檔案，記載他們的簡單生平和「罪狀」。Duch在撤離S21前未能銷毀這些文件，成為日後檢控他和赤柬的重要証據。
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Er6kA9muO1U/VOyRWikkzuI/AAAAAAABHX0/ZPZBiEjgGeA/s640/DSC_1480.jpg
犯人被虐待的照片
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b1hFnMXlVBQ/VOyRdb_4LuI/AAAAAAABHYM/gPFDHZj9qKE/s640/DSC_1483.jpg
每名受害者都要坐在這椅子拍照，然後量身高
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jTIR1lx7lV8/VOyRiC5xqUI/AAAAAAABHYc/k1cVZqBP5i4/s640/DSC_1485.jpg
腳鐐
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ubg_b29d0Rs/VOyRLcsRAqI/AAAAAAABHXM/Pscw2RIgxEo/s640/DSC_1475.jpg
不見天日的時光，你還能抱著希望活下去嗎
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DmhrLihAyHM/VOyRPwftGoI/AAAAAAABHXc/0Ch3FyzJdkg/s640/DSC_1477.jpg
原來是運動用途的木架被用作倒吊犯人，犯人昏迷後便被放進水中以水灌醒他
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pghohFoE2qU/VOyRnm6jsSI/AAAAAAABHYs/UmvzEhvLZcE/s640/DSC_1487.jpg
其中一棟建築物外掛上了鐵絲網。作用不是怕囚犯會逃跑，而是怕他們會跳樓自盡。
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b43NQoiR9l0/VOyR7n4xV1I/AAAAAAABHaE/yDUaMj6yvWc/s640/DSC_1498.jpg
昔日的課室變成可怕的修羅場
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WqtLuYbdE5E/VOyRrauiBDI/AAAAAAABHY8/Eg8r7wdYGds/s640/DSC_1489.jpg
石材造的獨立囚室
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zd-pRGPfu9Q/VOyRtgolGRI/AAAAAAABHZE/nNMOj_RTp4k/s640/DSC_1490.jpg
囚室很小，有些甚至沒有窗
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vOTTkK6BRrc/VOyRy6W6S4I/AAAAAAABHZc/MzE57cBtm6A/s640/DSC_1493.jpg
這麼近卻那麼遠的藍天
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PDDW6HkrfT0/VOySIB4tsvI/AAAAAAABHa8/-EHgYF6JIz4/s640/DSC_1505.jpg
木造的囚室
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6_1MBmIy3-Q/VOyR9MNITZI/AAAAAAABHaM/c9CIImInNuY/s640/DSC_1499.jpg
木囚室的空間更小
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PABUwxGTGc4/VOySB3dxdhI/AAAAAAABHak/UZwASrRwhbc/s640/DSC_1502.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SQpF6zWPxXM/VOySRfhF7JI/AAAAAAABHbk/4QpuBzKqyS8/s640/DSC_1510.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hmk06wP1J0Y/VOySTfOtnUI/AAAAAAABHbs/aloxAmkT2Q0/s640/DSC_1511.jpg
昔日的血跡仍留在地上
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jKRm_JU1TfE/VOySnN-gYXI/AAAAAAABHdE/zBizRAdU4aM/s640/DSC_1522.jpg
各種行刑用具
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qyKRYkyu21Q/VOyS0tMB7aI/AAAAAAABHd0/ln_bvDt_TUU/s640/DSC_1528.jpg
昔日的腥風血雨已被煙沒在歷史裏，所以大屠殺的慘劇還是一而再、再而三地發生
參觀當天陽光明媚，彷彿在撫慰在場每一個參觀者的心靈，場內沒有了喧鬧、沒有了selfie、沒有了交談，有的只是一張張帶點木然的表情，大家都沒法瞭解慘劇的內容。當我們看到人類的醜惡又一次赤裸裸地展露於面前時，我們沒法掩飾心底裏的不安︰是甚麼樣的環境令人可以放下所有道德枷鎖，不顧一切地屠殺身邊的人呢？若果我們在1975置身於這個國度，我們到底會成為劊子手，還是選擇成為刀下魂？
這又讓我想起Zimbardo教授所寫的《路西法效應》，真正讓慘劇發生、並且讓它持續擴大的，就是一個個沒有站出來、冷眼旁觀的平常人，我這樣說不是批評那些存活下來的柬埔寨人在當年苟且偷生是如何的懦弱──畢竟若果我在他們的位置恐怕也會採取同樣的行動。但是客觀地看，波爾布特一個人是沒法殺死二百萬人，而是透過一名名赤柬士兵的協助及其他人默許下完成的。這份平凡之惡(banality of evil)，就是我們要記著的教訓。當然從近代歷史來看，人類似乎還未從這堂歷史課中緊記這個教訓，否則大規模的屠殺便不會繼續在盧旺達、南斯拉夫及達爾科等地出現，恐怕人類距離修畢這門課還有很長時間。
延伸閱讀︰
盧旺達大屠殺的故事︰《We wish to inform you that tomorrow we will be killed with our families – Stories from Rwanda》 (https://horrypong.wordpress.com/2014/03/24/we-wish-to-inform-you-that-tomorrow-we-will-be-killed-with-our-families-stories-from-rwanda/)
平凡之惡︰《路西法效應》 (https://horrypong.wordpress.com/2013/05/12/%E3%80%8A%E8%B7%AF%E8%A5%BF%E6%B3%95%E6%95%88%E6%87%89%E3%80%8B/)
更多柬埔寨遊記請看--> https://horrycambodia.wordpress.com/
其他遊記--> https://horrypong.wordpress.com/旅遊誌/
微笑吧趁你還有牙齒
希望過去的歷史傷痛
能藉由時間的流逝來撫平
也願世人永遠和平相處...
能藉由時間的流逝來撫平
也願世人永遠和平相處...
有一種思念叫避而不見
感覺極度不適應，這種地方真是不想踏足半步
擦掉眼淚我依舊是王
的確是很沈重的一個地方
但走過這些歷史現場才會感受到人性的軟弱
特別在強權、邪悪面前大部份的人都會選擇服從
理解這是人性
然後想法防止人類掉入這樣的困地
才有可能走出屠殺的陰霾
但走過這些歷史現場才會感受到人性的軟弱
特別在強權、邪悪面前大部份的人都會選擇服從
理解這是人性
然後想法防止人類掉入這樣的困地
才有可能走出屠殺的陰霾
總有賤人想害哀家
我到過波蘭的威斯康辛集中營參觀,感覺上赤柬殺人手法原始得野蠻,比毛澤東發動文革殺人手法還殘暴!
北巷思嫿雨
我到過波蘭的威斯康辛集中營參觀,感覺上赤柬殺人手法原始得野蠻,比毛澤東發動文革殺人手法還殘暴!
的確是極原始
連最簡單無害的大樹也成為殺人凶器
可說是無所不用其極
的確是極原始
連最簡單無害的大樹也成為殺人凶器
可說是無所不用其極