在東非的經濟首都沙蘭港遇到強盜

香蕉你個不娜娜
坦尚尼亞.沙蘭港
2016年5月30日

  「Jambo(你好)!」我走在往車站的街道上,想在前往桑吉巴爾前先預訂深入中非的火車票,這時一個彪形大漢笑著跟我打招呼。
  「Kabari Asubuhi(早安)!」我點點頭向他回應。
  「Una Zumgunza Kiswahili(你會說史瓦希利語)」他看起來有點被嚇到。
  「Mimi Siyo Muzumgu(我不是外國遊客)」我有點邪惡的笑了,大學在準備律師考試時由於太枯燥,我想要學一種聽到就覺得很酷的語言,於是便選定了東非通用的史瓦希利語,當時每天在Youtube看教學影片,所以基本的對話還算熟悉,在坦尚尼亞的這些日子這個技能往往可以得到當地人會心一笑。

  他跟我說自己也要去車站,我們便邊走邊閒聊,這時旁邊突然一輛小轎車停了下來,車門打開幾個壯漢走了出來,這時我雖然有點警覺不對,但由於這幾天受到坦尚尼亞人太過熱情而毫無保留的對待,我並沒有拔腿就跑。

  「我是壞人,你給我上車」那個彪形大漢突然翻臉說。
  「你在開玩笑吧」當時我是真心以為他在開玩笑,畢竟這是早上十點的首都主要幹道,周圍全部都是路人,況且哪個強盜搶劫時會跟說自己是壞人,這也未免太沒有氣勢了。
  「誰跟你開玩笑」話剛說完他一個重拳往我的太陽穴悶擊下來,其他幾個壯漢急忙把我給拖上車。



  就這樣我現在困在一輛小轎車裡面,左右各一個壯漢在翻找我的背包,我的頭明明受到重擊,但或許是腎上腺素分泌太多,我完全沒有感覺到疼痛,只是有點超然的看著他們拆開我的行李,我的大腦異常的冷靜,只是想著應該要怎麼安全離開。

  當他們翻到我的暗袋時,所有人都發出了驚嘆聲,早在進入非洲前我就聽說這邊提錢不容易,所以看見沙蘭港機場可以提領美金時,我便把整趟非洲旅行需要的錢都提出來了,這是我畢生積蓄的三分之一;這時已經沒空理會金錢損失了,雖然知道自己毫無反抗被殺害的機會很低,但畢竟有潛在生命危險,我的大腦仍然不停計算應該要怎樣才能安然而退。

  「這是我的未婚妻,請你不要傷害我,我想要再見她一面」當他們翻開我的皮夾看見我和女朋友的合照時,我極盡可能的用最悲涼的聲音說。
  「閉嘴。」
  「你已經結婚、應該有小孩了吧,我知道你這麼做是為了讓孩子過更好的生活;我比你更幸運,我有錢可以出來旅行,而你則是為了生活,所以我不恨你,甚至我感謝你教會我很多事情」我指指他的婚戒說。

  這些話雖然大部分是狗屎,我相信他拿到錢不是吸毒就是嫖妓,但我卻是真心覺得自己幸運,因為我的家人給了我幸福的成長環境,我可以生長在富裕的國家,搶劫從來不是我的選項;此外損失了三分之一的旅行基金,這個教訓我肯定會記得很久,當時旁邊有車停下來時我的直覺和理智都告訴我要快跑,但我卻選擇了相信他,我確實不應該這麼毫無保留的信任人。

  「你是法律系畢業生?你現在也是街頭的畢業生了!」我的回答似乎讓他很滿意,他指指我台大法律的系服說;接著掏出手機給我看封面照片,是他和三個小孩的合照。
  「我是認真的,雖然自己花了很多錢來學這堂課,但我很感謝你,因為你沒有傷害我,我只是損失幾個月的薪水,甚至整趟旅行還能繼續下去」我繼續巴結的說。
  「沒錯,我只是要錢,我保證不會傷害你」他伸出小拇指和我拉了勾勾,這是史瓦希利式的承諾方式,接著他把相機和電腦交還給我,然後掏了20塊美金塞進我的口袋「你旅行會需要這些東西,我已經拿到足夠的錢了,這些都還給你,待會拿這個錢去搭計程車,記得不要隨便在路上攔車,否則再遇到搶劫你就沒有這麼幸運可以毫髮無傷了。」

  他都已經這樣說了,我心裡的石頭算是放了下來,這時廣播突然放起了史瓦希利快樂的音樂,我無意間竟然隨著音樂哼起歌來。

  「兄弟,你怎麼可以這麼快樂啊」那個壯漢有點不解地問。
  「你剛給了我20塊美金,我晚上想要吃烤雞腿配薯條,然後再點一瓶吉利馬札羅啤酒,想到就覺得很開心,而且今天的天氣真好啊!」
  「你這是什麼意思!」
  「Hakuna Matata(享受當下吧),反正開心或難過生活都要過,如果你沒有要傷害我,明天我還是要去桑吉巴爾旅行,我想要開心的過去」我說。



  放屁,我一點都不開心。

  這群渾蛋強盜拿走我所有的錢,連我女朋友送我那隻螢幕摔裂的手機也被搶走,雖然他們確實遵守承諾讓我安全下車,但我確實是被洗劫一空,銀行帳戶裡的錢也被提領乾淨。

  我落魄的晃回YMCA,很快我的故事便傳遍了青年旅館,這倒也是好事,受到驚嚇的我非常需要用講話來轉移注意力,而多數背包客都很願意當我的聽眾;此外許多人聽了我的遭遇,儘管是第一次見面,也主動說要請我吃飯壓壓驚,我就這樣省下一整天的飯錢。

  「千萬不要毫無保留的相信人,這應該是神想要教你的事」下午我躺在交誼廳的沙發上休息時,一個修女走過來跟我搭話。
  「但相信是一件多美好的事情,如果人與人都能彼此信任,這會是多麼快樂的世界」我有些不滿地說,如果連最博愛的神職人員都說出這種話,這個國家真的讓我覺得難過。
  「在你的國家也許是這樣,但是在這邊千萬不要」另一個修女走過來說。
  「你的運氣算很好啦,這邊許多被搶劫的人,最後連屍體都找不到啊」一個在沙蘭港工作的中國人插話。
  「還有飛車搶劫,我的一個同事遇到飛車搶劫被拖行幾百公尺,整個手臂的皮膚都沒有了」另一個來這邊自助餐吃飯的日本人說。

  真是令人沮喪的對話,我有些意興闌珊的打發他們,想一個人好好平靜心情,這時一個德國女生看到眾人散去,有些怯生生地走過來跟我說話。

  「我剛剛一直在聽你們對話,我想告訴你信任就是毫無保留赤裸裸地面對他人,你會因此看見醜陋,但也才有機會看見至善;如果我們永遠拒怯他人,雖然比較不容易受到傷害,然而我們卻會與世界上最美好的事情插身而過」說完這些話,她點點就頭離開了,留下我獨自咀嚼所有人給的建議。

https://www.backpackers.com.tw/forum/picture.php?albumid=50359&pictureid=607039
(沙蘭港郊區的雜貨店, 都用鐵柵欄圍起來避免搶劫)

https://www.backpackers.com.tw/forum/picture.php?albumid=50359&pictureid=607040
(YMCA經理跟我說, 即使是在市中心, 星期日無人還是經常有搶案發生)

/////////////////////////

更多環球旅行遊記請看目錄總覽
http://losttravellerdiary.blogspot.com/2016/01/blog-post.html
淡若輕風
人沒事就好,不幸中的大幸!

我下個月可能也會去沙兰港,真的得處處小心了。

好奇在“早上十点的首都主要幹道,周围全部都是路人”的情況下,沒有其他人看見嗎?還是大家都習慣了?
風吹褲襠蛋蛋涼
平安總是幸福的

我在三蘭港魚市被一個當地人盯上緊跟著
一直走到的前總統府(?)前遇到衛兵盤問(因為當日總統要來這邊)
我告訴他我不認得路 從魚市要回旅館
然後後面這個人我不認識 但他一直跟著我
我聽不懂但我感覺那個當地人一直在跟衛兵說他是我的朋友之類或者導遊?
那個衛兵把他攔下來並且要我快走
在我走了一百公尺回頭後
那個人繼續跟著我走 我只好加速
就像你 光天化日而且人口稠密的地方遇到類似的事情

不過後來我脫身後
看到一個在海邊帶著相機以及印表機幫人拍照的當地人
穿著鹿港天后宮進香的衣服
便是會心一笑

--
最後我是在莫三比克首都的大白天被搶
該來的好像也是總是會來就是 :)
一笑奈何
你會說當地語真是太酷了!他居然沒有因為這原因放你一馬~
希望你日後旅行一切順利!
鑒婊專家
Theft

Caution should always be exercised, particularly in tourist areas, such as Arusha, Stone Town (Zanzibar), and Dar es Salaam. Violent crime against foreigners is not uncommon, particularly against those walking alone at night, which is not recommended. Pickpocketing and con artists are also common. Pickpockets work crowded markets, like Kariakoo, and bus stations. Don't be fooled by small children who are often forced into a life of crime by older kids or parents -- never carry anything of value in your pockets and don't let expensive camera equipment dangle from your neck. Don't leave bags unattended or even out of your sight when on the beach.

See specific area or city articles for details.

In general, avoid isolated areas, especially after dark. Travelling in large groups is safer. If there are many people or security guards around (e.g. city center areas) you should be relatively safe.

The safest way to travel is by taxi with a driver you know, especially when it's dark out (late night or early morning). Although it's uncommon, taxi drivers have been known to rob tourists. Taxi drivers are a major security weak link in Dar es Salaam. Get the number for a taxi you trust, from your hotel or a local. If you are in a situation where you have to take a taxi that has not been recommended, take the number and send it to your relative so that it can be tracked if something happens. Most of the taxi drivers in Dar know the criminals who hang out in their parking area but turn a blind eye to their activities.

Buses have infrequently been stopped by robbers on long-distance (often overnight) routes. If you have to travel a long distance by bus, it might be better to break it into multiple day-only trips, or to travel by plane or train.

In the event of an incident, the police may or may not make a strong effort to identify the culprits, but obtaining a police report is necessary if you plan on filing an insurance claim later, or if important documents are stolen. Make sure the police report indicates if your papers were stolen; otherwise you may have difficulty leaving the country. You should immediately contact your local embassy or consulate in the event that your passport is taken.
瞌睡蟲
哇... 看得我心驚肉跳! 太驚險了!
還好人沒事, 大幸啊!
喜歡你的正面思考, 正能量會讓你接下來的旅程順心如意且快樂豐收的!
入夢亂心
Walking

There are very few sidewalks in Tanzania, always pay careful attention to the traffic and be prepared to move out of the way, as vehicles do not make much effort to avoid pedestrians. In Tanzania, cars have priority.

The best way to avoid touts, sellers, dealers etc, when they inevitably come up to you and say "jambo" is to either say nothing, or to say "thank you" or "asante", and to keep moving. Some may be offended by 'no', and persistent touts will be encouraged by any kind of interaction at all.

Walking safaris is a part of Ecotourism whereby tourists walk to see natural scenery of tourist destinations to minimize impacts on tourist destinations.

Ecotourism is travel to natural places which are virgin while conserving environment and improving well being of people. Ecotourism activities include walking safaris, game drives, bird watching, trekking, cultural tourism and mountain climbing.

Ecotourism is a responsible travel whereby all tourist destinations visited are left intact and ecotourism is guided by naturalist guides. Naturalist guides include safari guides and mountain climbing guides. In Tanzania ecotourism hotspots are Mount Kilimanjaro, Serengeti national park, Ngorongoro conservation area, Selous game reserve, Ruaha national park, Udzungwa and Mafia Island.

To organize ecotourism trips, local tour operators know better places and private Tanzania tours. KILIMANJARO TANZANITE SAFARIS Co.Ltd offer best travel deals on climbing mount Kilimanjaro, wildlife safaris, photographic safaris, nature safaris, camping safaris, eco lodges, cheap travel packages, budget camping safaris and beach holidays. <a rel="nofollow" class="external autonumber" href="http://www.kili-tanzanitesafaris.com/">[2]</a> Mount Kilimanjaro climbing trips, wildlife safaris, African safaris, Kilimanjaro trekking expeditions, Kilimanjaro climbing routes, machame route, Rongai route, budget camping safaris and photographic safaris Tanzania.
Corruption

Tanzania, like many developing countries, suffers from corruption. Police are poorly paid - many make less than $40/month. You may be solicited for a bribe by an official willing to turn a blind eye to your infraction, fabricated or otherwise. Some travellers are very much averse to paying bribes to anyone, especially in a country with so many needy but honest citizens.

Fraudsters are known to impersonate police, sometimes in the guise of an "immigration official" who identifies a problem with your documents. They will flash official-looking papers at you. But there are many plainclothes officers as well. And if you are confronted with someone in uniform, they are almost certainly an actual officer.

On-the-spot-fine is one term used for a bribe. Those words are meant to initiate a conversation about money. You may be told that the real fine is TSh40,000 or more and that for TSh20,000 or 30,000, paid immediately, you can be on your way and avoid a trip to the Police Station to pay a higher fine.

If you are certain you are in the right, and do not want to pay a bribe, some strategies are:

Involve other people. Fraudsters or corrupt officials are unlikely to pursue their schemes near an audience. You can ask bystanders for help on the pretext of not understanding the officer.

Invoke higher powers. Insisting on going to the local police station is a good way to make an illegitimate issue go away. Suggesting a visit to your country's embassy (e.g. to have an official there help translate the conversation, due to one's poor knowledge of the local language and laws) is also effective. At this point, they usually have a look of horror on their face, since they don't want any real officials involved. Asking for bribes is illegal, and there is an office of corruption where they can be reported.

Play dumb. Politely explain to the person that you don't understand the nature of the infraction, even if you do. Tanzanians are not direct, and prefer to imply what they want, instead of asking outright. Tell them you've only just arrived in the country, even if it's your 100th visit. If you know some Kiswahili, I wouldn't mention it. It may only make things harder.

Insist a receipt with an official stamp -- a request that is most likely to be met with confusion and concern. The idea is to show that you don’t know that this is actually a bribe and that you simply try to play by the rules. Hopefully, after 10 or 20 minutes of a circular, but always polite, conversation, they may send you on your merry way. A word of caution about this approach. Corrupt officials have become wise to this and in one case a person requesting a receipt was told the cashier's office was closed and would not open until the next morning. The options were to pay the fine or spend the night in prison. It appears this was not a bluff on the part of the officer. The fine was paid and no receipt was issued. Be aware that the game is constantly changing.

Also keep in mind that:

Discussing money or negotiating the fine may encourage the perception that you understand the nature of the conversation (i.e. you are willing to pay a bribe).

Directly accusing the officer of corruption is likely to be counter-productive; it is important that you allow the officer to save face.

If you insist on going to the police station, you may be expected to give the officer a ride. If you are alone, and especially if the "officer" is plainclothes, this may not be a good idea. If you are approached by multiple people and are alone, under no circumstances get in their vehicle - insist on taking a taxi. And once you get to the station, just pay whatever fine is quoted and insist on a receipt. This may end up costing you more than the bribe, but at least this cop won't get any money out of you, and he/she may think twice before flagging down other foreigners. Also, demonstrate respect for their authority, never raise your voice, and never swear or insult them. Whether you are right or not does not matter at that point.

Finally: Incidents of excessive force involving tourists are rare, but that doesn’t mean it cannot happen. For instance, police have been known to be drunk on the job, which can seriously inhibit their ability to reason. As in any situation where someone is trying to get money out of you, by force or threat of force, it's better to be safe than sorry; it's only money.
無人像你
U shouldn't stay around city centre of dar, place like ywca,ymca!

Dar has many inexpensive guest houses outside of the city centre, particularly in the area south of the university. If you feel like experiencing the real Dar as most of its residents do, ask for help finding a cheap "gesti" and be prepared to go off the beaten track.

If you're coming or going by bus there's a number of basic gestis in the Sinza area just around the corner from Ubungo bus terminal. A taxi driver should be able to help you find one in your chosen price range.
我有故事你有酒
Tanzania is one of the least policed countries in the world. Rapes and murders often go unreported and little data exists to suggest how common these crimes are. Domestic violence and sexual harassment, which often goes well beyond verbal cat-calling, are extremely common. Foreign female students have documented multiple accounts of sexual assualt and/or rape. These cases often go unreported/under-reported by universities with study abroad programs in Tanzania, and of course by the Tanzanian authorities themselves. Walking alone at night outside the most exclusive areas (think Oyster Bay, the Slipway, Sea Cliff, etc.) is extremely inadvisable for foreigners. Men stand a high chance of being mugged, women of being mugged and/or sexually assaulted. Dar is often very poorly lit. The city experiences a great many power outages. This makes lone women particularly vulnerable.

Most travelers who are in Dar on a short stay will, fortunately, not face these challenges. Similarly, most expatriates who live in Dar are sequestered well enough (with cars, security guards, in upscale neighborhoods, etc.) not to have to worry about this sort of thing.

By far the most common crimes, and the biggest risk for most travelers, will be muggings and petty thefts. Muggings occur very frequently, including sometimes on the street in broad daylight. Sometimes, but not always, the victim gets roughed up. Foreign students at the University of Dar es Salaam have been mugged at machete point. Never carry your wallet anywhere easily accessible (a back pocket, an outside flap of a backpack or purse, etc.).

Avoid in particular:

- walking on the beach (like Cocoa Beach) while carrying valuables, as many of these places are invisible from the road. Dar can be a friendly place, and you can certainly have an enjoyable visit there, but avoid carrying valuables as you may draw problems. You can walk in the city in the evening but as it gets darker and you see fewer people on the street, take the hint and exercise caution. It might be better to take a taxi. If you are noticeably foreign, remember that many people will assume you have valuables and may be an easy target.

- Parking in dark sectors of the beach is a bad idea as thieves and junkies crouch in the dark waiting for the unaware foreigner to park, turn-off the engine and leave the car (to have a nice view of the Dar night from the beach) which be stolen or have valuables stolen by a waiting unseen groups - in the case of a male foreigner- or assault and steal in the case of a female foreigner. For a female foreigner, this is an absolute Not To Do.

Parking in a place without a guard creates the serious risk of having lights or other car parts extracted. It is not uncommon for people to try to steal things through open windows, while you are waiting for lights to change, or to open unlocked doors and either get in or swipe something! Some people have had passersby attempt to snatch purses off their laps while sitting in the back of a taxi at an intersection.

There is a major police station at Selendar Bridge on Ocean Road and other police posts in various other places. If you don't follow the driving rules (or sometimes even if you do) you will spend time and money, either discussing with them their price or more formally in the police station. Police here ask for lifts regularly to get places but you are not obliged to take them if you feel uncomfortable. There is a great deal of corruption in Tanzania. Skin color, bribes, and connections to known elites in town still, unfortunately, hold a lot of sway.

A number of visitors have reported being pickpocketed in crowds at the Posta daladala stand recently (2009). If you're walking past this it's best to cross the road to avoid the crowd. If you're getting a daladala be aware of your possessions, be particularly aware of people stopping suddenly in front of you - this is sometimes done to block you in while someone behind you goes through your bags. Other well known pickpocket sites are the ferry to Kigamboni (nb. not the Zanzibar ferry), the Mnazi Mmoja dala stand, the trinket stalls on Samora Av and Karriakoo Market. There's no reason to avoid these areas just be aware of your possessions when you are there, particularly bags. Using razor blades to cut into bags to remove items is quite common - and really annoying.

If you are robbed, you have a few options. None of them are good. You can yell, "mwizi!" This means 'thief' in Swahili. If you do this in a crowded place, you will very likely incite a mob to form. The mob might corner the thief and detain him until the police arrive. They might also beat up the thief very badly, possibly to the point of death. Theft carries huge risks in a culture where people possess very few material goods. The social punishments for stealing can be brutal beatings or, in some cases, death. Weigh the worth of your $40 cell phone or purse against the potential results of fomenting a stir. If you are in a crowded place (like the downtown Posta daladala stand, for example), you will, at the very least, create a gigantic scene, probably cause someone to be beaten, and have to spend a day dealing with the Dar es Salaam police department in sweltering, inefficient conditions. Much more practical just to exercise extreme care with how you carry your belongings, and to avoid carrying valuables (i.e. anything you can't afford to lose) altogether.

Be careful when taking taxis at night, particularly if you are alone, where possible use a driver you know or ask someone to call a taxi for you. If staying in Dar for an extended period of time, try to get the phone numbers of the first fair, seemingly trustworthy cabbies you encounter. Keep using them. If you are living in Dar without a car, this will greatly increase your safety. Taking buses at night and walking in poorly lit areas alone or in small groups (particularly of women, noticeable foreigners, or other people who might look like 'easy targets') is a great way to increase the risk of something bad happening (mugging, rape, etc.). Split taxis when possible. Some travelers have narrowly escaped potentially violent muggings and/or rape and others were not so fortunate.

Remember that, generally speaking, the more you stand out, the higher your risk factor will be. It is possible to have a wonderful time in Dar, if you make yourself aware of these risks and adapt accordingly. Guide books neglect a great deal of this common sense information when it comes to Tanzania.
遍體鱗傷才叫漂亮
meanwhile, where's taiwan diplomats in DAR? couldn't they help u some emergency cash?

maybe some taiwanese and thai business people @DAR can help u out if u need job for exchange cash and food
人總在回憶中感動或後悔
每個地方都會帶給每個人不同的旅程和感受

正如有時候聽到別人説泰國很危險遭遇過什麽不幸的事情,但也有很多人覺得泰國很友好。

我在Dar es Salaam幸好沒有遇到任何不測,倒是這個國家的確不容易自由行。

謝謝樓主的分享,很佩服你這麼勇敢!
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