法國夏日.安錫 Annecy.徜徉阿爾卑斯湖畔時光 (上)

我用三生煙火換你一世迷離
法國夏日.安錫 Annecy.徜徉阿爾卑斯湖畔時光 (上) (https://wp.me/p9Jcte-F7)
原文清晰好讀版:https://wp.me/p9Jcte-F7

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在法國旅行時,安錫(Annecy,亦譯安納西)是我最喜歡的幾個城市之一,在這裡度過了非常美好的短暫夏日時光。這座城市聞起來像是種滿了花,不知道是因為花季到了,還是因為小城擁有全歐洲最乾淨的湖泊──安錫湖,儘管只是漫步湖畔,心情也不知不覺慢慢鬆緩下來,整座城市彷彿一座飄著粉色玫瑰花瓣的湖水城堡,朗朗且清澈宜人。

悠然安錫湖畔:浮潛、跳水、發呆、看書、日光浴

座落於法國東阿爾卑斯山麓的安錫,比鄰瑞士日內瓦,從巴黎搭乘 TGV 至此約 4 小時、瑞士日內瓦巴士約 1.5 小時車程。安錫也是夏季法國人最喜歡的度假勝地之一,我在的安錫朋友就笑稱他們從來不需要出去度假:「因為生活在安錫,每天都像在度假」,夏天游泳攀岩,冬天滑雪,春天賞花,秋天想做什麼就做什麼,四季皆美。

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而這座古老的美麗湖畔小鎮魅力,來自於風光如畫的安錫湖、雅緻可愛的古樸建築,以及阿爾卑斯山系阿拉維斯山(Aravis)下湖畔獨有的閒適氣息。

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趁著下午陽光正好,將水瓶補滿,帶著抹了巧克力醬的法國麵包,在午后漫步到安錫湖(Lac d’Annecy, Lake Annecy)邊野餐最適合不過,位於湖畔的火星公園(Champ de Mars)景緻優美,湖畔停滿遊艇,湖裡有人搭乘汽艇環湖欣賞風景,不少人在湖裡游泳、乘風帆、浮潛、踩水上單車,湖中也有許多水鳥與天鵝愜意悠游。

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坐在湖畔賞欣賞阿爾卑斯山下的如詩景色,手上的麵包吸引了兩隻天鵝到我 (http://starridays.com/)面前,眼巴巴伸長脖子望著我手上的麵包,以不到5公分的距離欣賞天鵝,才發現天鵝其實體型不小,甚至只比我 (http://starridays.com/)養的女生黃金獵犬小一點,牠們在水面上身體幾乎呈現靜止狀態,但水面下的黑色腳掌其實拼命在划水,模樣非常可愛。

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兒童們在湖裡跑來跑去跳水嬉鬧,光溜溜的好不快活。我 (http://starridays.com/)舒服的在湖邊草地躺著曬了兩個小時的太陽,享受白朗峰下的美麗風光。

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漫步小鎮景點:小島宮.愛情橋.安錫城堡

從石橋上眺望,可以望見矗立於堤鄔運河(Le Thiou) 交上的三角錐形石造建築:小島宮(Palais de l’Isle,又稱島上皇宮),如航行如水流上的船首,多了幾分童話色彩,加上河畔兩旁顏色繽紛的彩色小屋,倒映在河中的美麗小島身影,是安錫明信片必會出現的畫面。

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小島宮在堤塢運河畔,遊人如織,享受夏日法國舒服的日光,啜飲咖啡

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如對歷史有興趣,可走進小島宮參觀

始建於 12 世紀的小島宮曾為官邸、行宮、行政廳、鑄幣廠、法院、與監獄,後在1986年改為安錫歷史博物館(Musee d’Histoire d’Annecy),這座古城中最具代表性的古蹟已成為安錫不可或缺的文化古蹟;如對小島宮內部牢房舊貌有興趣,可購票入內參觀,票價為 €3.5(學生票 €2.6)。

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午後的情人橋 ‍❤️‍

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情人橋畔停滿小船

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划船享受眼前美景,是生活的一部分,日日美好

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陽光如碎片灑落瓦塞運河上☀

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午後的運河,氤氳著水氣、陽光與嫩綠樹葉,交織成令人難忘的美景

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在瓦塞運河&情人橋畔散步,是到安錫必做不可的事情

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漫步於湖畔的愛情橋(Pont des Amours,也譯愛之橋、情人橋),則可悠閒欣賞安錫湖之美,關於愛情橋有許多故事或不可考傳說,其中最為廣傳的就是盧梭與華倫夫人過去曾在此約會,時至今日,愛情橋也成為人們最喜歡散步、約會的地方,看著淼淼運河上小船悠悠航行,陽光篩透過河岸兩旁綠蔭,翡翠樹葉與金色陽光交織成明媚的瓦塞運河(canal de Vassé)風景。

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穿梭小街巷,是看見安錫之美的其中一種方式

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美麗的民宅

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沿著皮耶路(Rue Perrière)轉進胡同 Impasse du Trippoz,就可以抵達目前作為博物館的安錫城堡(Château d’Annecy),欣賞建於12至16世紀的壯觀城堡,此處也是安錫的制高點,可從此眺望藍天下紅瓦屋頂的可愛小城風貌。

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安錫城堡,白牆紅瓦造型別緻

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安錫隨出可見的黃色玻璃煤油燈(當然現在裡面是放燈泡啦 ),我覺得超級可愛,看了心情就很好

乘船遊湖.高空飛行傘:欣賞美麗小鎮湖景

如果想更認識安錫的古老小鎮一點,可以到湖畔的碼頭乘船遊覽安錫湖,票價視選擇 Croisière Grand La(€14)——航程約 1 小時,單純遊湖一圈&英/法文解說(不下船),或是 Circus Omnibus(€18)—— 約兩小時航程,會在沿岸停留,可到各小鎮走走,沿途可飽覽安錫湖藍天碧湖、15世紀建築的杜安堡(Chateau de Duingt)及湖畔古典建築風景,船舶會停靠在安錫對岸的 Veyrier du Lac 與 Menthon-St-Bernard ,可從此上岸四處走逛,欣賞可愛的村落小屋們。

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在安錫湖東岸的半山腰(路程有點遠,我後來搭便車才上到半山腰)有適合飛行傘活動的大草原,可以在飛行傘上眺望整座安錫湖美景,活動相當熱門,建議在安錫時請旅館協助事先預約,不然直接到現場基本上是客滿狀態,非常推薦在安錫可以嘗試看看,還可以加價用 go pro 錄影留下紀念,一小時的飛行大約 €80 左右。

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碼頭畔景色

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好心讓我 (http://starridays.com/)搭乘便車的法國夫婦(走路走累了又有點迷路 )

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天空到處可見飛行傘

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非常推薦在安錫體驗飛行傘,從高空俯瞰令人屏息的安錫湖美景

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我就是在安錫湖沒跳到飛行傘,一直念念不忘,因此後來到夏慕尼(Chamonix)挑了被冰河圍繞、高 3752 公尺的 Grands Montets 跳飛行傘,身為一個很怕高的人(我連摩天輪都覺得很可怕),覺得飛行傘上的高空並不算太可怕,只是一直旋轉可能會有點頭暈,在哪裡體驗飛行端看是喜歡山景還是湖景了。

當地人喜愛的起司鍋 Cheese Pot:Le Freti (https://www.tripadvisor.com.tw/ShowUserReviews-g187260-d1058291-r380332132-Le_Freti-Annecy_Haute_Savoie_Auvergne_Rhone_Alpes.html)

要說起在安錫最受歡迎的起司鍋,絕非 Le Freti 莫屬,從餐廳門口就能聞到令人食慾大開的濃郁起司香氣,因為一個人去吃晚餐不知道點什麼好,親切的服務生建議我點一盤生火腿拼盤、一份馬鈴薯、一杯可樂搭配我 (http://starridays.com/)的起司鍋,免費提供的法國麵包、美味的起司鍋與餐點讓人吃得心滿意足,價格亦相當合理,是在地人吃起司鍋時的第一選擇,我 (http://starridays.com/)詢問當地認識的朋友,獲得眾人毫不猶豫的一致推薦。

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一個人吃起司鍋也可以 :)

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讓人回味再三的火腿拼盤

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主角起司鍋❤❤❤

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配上馬鈴薯好好食

雖然一個人吃不完這麼多,吃完一盤生火腿拼盤(配上漬物好喜歡),再吃些馬鈴薯和法國麵包沾起司就飽了,但是用餐經驗愉快,如有機會再遊安錫一定會再訪。

Info/
地址:12 rue Saint Claire
時間:19:00 – 21:00(周六&日增加中午時段,11:30 – 14:00)

關於安錫的美好有太多,下篇會分享在安錫住宿、美味法式餐廳 &冰淇淋 與私房行程

作者╱
Starri,享受美食,喜歡旅行的女生,旅遊記者╱作家╱攝影師╱藝術家
現居台灣,和英國男友K過著幸福熱鬧的小日子
透過寫作與攝影分享生活點滴與旅程美好
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