威尼斯的教堂鐘聲

劇情再美終究是戲
威尼斯的教堂鐘聲最是迷人!
或整點,或半點地就會響起,好像鄰近的教堂都說好了似的!
他們或單鐘,或雙鐘,甚至排鐘,完美的和音此起彼落,響徹雲霄!
美妙的鐘聲是來自天使的跫音,溫暖地流到威尼斯島上每個角落,
也流入每一個思鄉遊子最深層的心底!

里亞托橋旁San Giocometto教堂鐘樓是三排鐘,遠方是對岸的聖使徒教堂鐘樓

格瑞米亞教堂San Geremia的鐘塔是威尼斯最古老的鐘塔,建於12到13世紀

希臘人的聖喬治教堂(San Giorgio dei Greci)的鐘塔是座斜塔!

從未有個地方像威尼斯這樣,在小小一個潟湖島區就有超過56間教堂,
而每間教堂又個個不同,各自有它獨特的韻味!
有的教堂表現出羅曼式的沉穩;有的教堂是威尼斯哥德式的精緻;
也有的教堂線條帶有文藝復興的婉約;
也有的是受更早拜占庭的影響表現十足的東方風情!
雄偉的巴洛克建築總是引人注目;就算是到後來,也還可欣賞到驀然回首的的新古典!

參觀威尼斯的教堂大多是需要入場費用的,但是你可以買張教堂通行卡Chorus Pass,
(你可以在線上,服務中心或參觀第一間教堂時購買)
可以讓你免費參觀島區的16間教堂,一年都有效;
雖然不包括聖馬可大教堂,但光是參觀威尼斯的第二大教堂Frari就值回票價!

威尼斯最有名的聖馬可大教堂,Basilica di San Marco,是威尼斯最大的教堂,
屬於拜占庭混合後來的哥德式風格,10世紀時為威尼斯商人從埃及亞歷山大港偷偷運回聖馬可遺體所建,
在接下來數百年之間,威尼斯商人經商獲利,不斷從東方帶回金銀珠寶來裝飾,擴建教堂,
陽台上的駟馬戰車鍍金銅雕就是從君士坦丁堡帶回(掠奪?)的,後來還被拿破崙奪走,現歸返!

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弗拉里榮耀聖母教堂,Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari或簡稱Frari,
是威尼斯第二大教堂教堂,13世紀開始興建了一百年才完成!
裡面有威尼斯僅存的祭壇屏風,祭壇裡巨大的聖母昇天圖是威尼斯文藝復興大師提香的得意作品,
新古典雕刻大師卡諾瓦就埋葬於此!

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跟Frari同時興建的聖約翰保羅大教堂,Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo)13世紀所建,
除了教堂本身是哥德式,一旁的醫院則是拜占庭式;是威尼斯第三座次級聖殿(Minor Basilica)!
共有25位威尼斯歷史名人及總督埋葬於此,因此教堂被稱為威尼斯的萬神殿!

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另一座威尼斯哥德式教堂為12世紀的菜園聖母教堂(Madonna dell'Orto),
主要為擺渡(或貢多拉)主保聖人聖克里多夫所建,後來因為在菜園裡挖到聖母像而改名;
是染匠之子,晚期威尼斯文藝復興畫家,丁多列多的教堂,教堂內有他的墳墓及非常多的宗教畫作!

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聖薩卡里亞教堂(San Zaccaria)以供奉施洗者約翰的父親聖薩卡里亞的遺骨而名,
因為由不同時期完成,所以顯現不同風貌!底層是羅馬式,上層是文藝復興式,右側修道院則是哥德式;
教堂內有喬凡尼貝里尼Giovanni Bellini的"神聖對話"就在這裡,還有許多知名的畫家像:
Tintoretto,Tiepolo跟Van Dyck....使得教堂彷彿是間美術館!
恐怖的是:歷史上共有三位威尼斯總督在這個教堂附近發生謀殺血案!

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15世紀的Santa Maria Formosa教堂有優美的文藝復興式鐘樓,面向廣場的立面卻是巴洛克式,
1492年時因為總督夢見聖母瑪利亞化身成豐腴婦人,並要求為她蓋一座白雲下的教堂而興建,
這裡也是經常舉辦古典音樂會的地方!

這是15世紀末所建的奇蹟聖母堂Santa Maria dei Miracoli,
優美的圓形線條跟建築本身是由彩色大理石蓋成讓教堂贏得"文藝復興的珠寶盒"美稱!

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朱烏迪卡島上盛期文藝復興大師帕拉迪歐所設計的教堂,這三座教堂堪稱威尼斯的驕傲!
由上而下分別是:
聖喬治馬喬雷(San Giorgio Maggiore),奇特雷(Le Zitelle)及救世主教堂(Redentore)
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San Giorgio Maggiore 亦屬於聖殿等級的教堂,就位於聖馬可小廣場外的聖喬治島上,
教堂有美麗的修道院庭園,還可以搭電梯登上教堂的鐘塔,可以冷眼旁觀對岸聖馬可廣場的人潮,還可以360度俯瞰大運河流入亞德里亞海的潟湖風光!

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威尼斯巴洛克式教堂最有名的當然就是當地人暱稱為"耳朵"的安康聖母教堂,
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute,簡稱Salute,
17世紀時由帕拉迪歐的弟子隆蓋那Baldassarre Longhena所設計的,
巨大的圓頂,漩窩型的扶拱跟雙鐘塔,氣勢恢宏,是威尼斯第五座聖殿等級的教堂!

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這是另一座隆蓋那在1654年的作品史卡齊教堂,Chiesa degli Scalzi,
來威尼斯一下Santa Lucia車站就會看到史卡齊教堂用豪華的巴洛克建築迎賓!
這也是威尼斯唯一使用卡拉拉大理石興建的教堂!
威尼斯共和國末代總督曼寧Ludovico Manin在此埋葬!

18世紀初的玫瑰聖母教堂Santa Maria del Rosario 或稱l Gesuati,
正立面為四個美德的雕像,內部有洛可可裝飾以及提也波羅的天頂畫
面對對岸朱烏迪卡島上前輩建築大師帕拉迪歐的經典作品,教堂的設計者Massari可不敢怠慢!

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位於Cannaregio區的聖母升天教堂Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta,
又稱l Gesuiti,
也是原12世紀教堂歷經多次地震毀壞後,18世紀改建至今,屬於在威尼斯非主流的耶穌會IHS所有;
屋頂眾多雕像,敘述聖母瑪利亞在天使簇擁以及眾使徒列隊下昇天的情景!

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潟湖慕拉諾Murano島上的聖度那多教堂Santa Maria e San Donato為12世紀拜占庭式教堂,
旁邊獨立的鐘樓由完全由紅磚砌成,不用灰泥黏合!
教堂內地板上有'東方柔軟地毯'美稱的大理石馬賽克,描繪孔雀,狐狸等各種動物圖案,
想像一下過去四海經商的威尼斯人,帶回各種珍奇動物(甚至大象)上威尼斯島的情形!

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聖殤教堂Santa Maria della Pieta,是18世紀末新古典式教堂,教堂入口門上方是代表"慈善"的雕像;
過去是 Antonio Vivaldi譜曲及教導孤兒合唱的地方,故又稱韋瓦第教堂,
聖殤教堂與其說是教堂,還不如說是個音樂廳!

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愛已欠費
感謝大大分享威尼斯教堂系列。。
想請問您,這樣逛完所有教堂好好欣賞建築物,約需要幾天時間?
如果考慮逛的方便度(不用天天從外頭坐車進島),島上雙人B&B七天期約可找到多少預算的房間?
島上有超市嗎?
姐與愛情水土不服
1. 不可能逛完所有教堂吧?!而且威尼斯教堂卡也沒包括所有教堂,你可以選幾間順路的,盡量..
3到7日非常好!很高興有人懂得要住下來慢慢欣賞威尼斯,
據統計,大部分到威尼斯觀光的人,都只待一個中午,而且就在聖馬可廣場左右逛逛,就說到
過威尼斯了!
2. 對!住在本島會比從陸岸那邊搭車過來這樣每天來回方便,而且可以玩得更晚些;
雖然較貴,也可能房間會較小,但考量旅遊品質,我覺得會較划算!
大概NT 3000到6000(2 persons per night)就有很好的B & B了,
我建議住在車站附近,交通會更便利些!
3. 買張ACTV Travel Card吧!(3日40歐),Hop on and off很方便的!
4. 不用擔心超市,很多的!尤其車站附近那裏有間很大間的超市呢!
奈何橋上唱國歌
好懷念! 感謝分享!
寂寞總是如影隨形
--------------------------------------

超級詳細的 ....

令人對 威尼斯 的教堂有更深的認識...

(Y)
汐顏兮夢
感謝大大解答疑惑,
上次跟旅行團,確實就是住島外(團體)搭車進車站,好像是先做快艇到聖馬可廣場拍拍照,然後參觀道奇宮,搭貢多拉,自由活動然後約時間自己回聖馬可廣場。
這時郵輪團來了,天呀!洶湧的人潮幾乎把橋塞滿。

對於喜歡教堂建築與威尼斯特殊東西融合風格的攝影愛好者來說,感覺就像進入寶藏地卻空手而回一樣,雖然甚麼都做了,但卻甚麼都遺憾。

還是長住用腳走過才過癮,會考慮ACTV Travel Card的,感謝您。

1. 不可能逛完所有教堂吧?!而且威尼斯教堂卡也沒包括所有教堂,你可以選幾間順路的,盡量..
3到7日非常好!很高興有人懂得要住下來慢慢欣賞威尼斯,
據統計,大部分到威尼斯觀光的人,都只待一個中午,而且就在聖馬可廣場左右逛逛,就說到
過威尼斯了!
2. 對!住在本島會比從陸岸那邊搭車過來這樣每天來回方便,而且可以玩得更晚些;
雖然較貴,也可能房間會較小,但考量旅遊品質,我覺得會較划算!
大概NT 3000到6000(2 persons per night)就有很好的B & B了,
我建議住在車站附近,交通會更便利些!
3. 買張ACTV Travel Card吧!(3日40歐),Hop on and off很方便的!
4. 不用擔心超市,很多的!尤其車站附近那裏有間很大間的超市呢!
小怪瘦
感謝大大分享威尼斯教堂G系列。。
想請問您,這樣逛完所有教堂好好欣賞建築物,約需要幾天時間?
如果考慮逛的方便度(不用天天從外頭坐車進島),島上雙人B&B七天期約可找到多少預算的房間?
島上有超市嗎?

My personal favorite area for logging, would be somewhere close to
1. Piazza San Marco (breath taking view, main station for hopping on/off a Vaporetto to/from other islands), make sure to check out San Marco square, before dawn and sunset, it drew me back there a couple of times in various trips to Europe.
2. Canal Grande (central location of Venice, best view/location on Canal Grande)
3. Ponte di Rialto (close to Rialto Market, where "the tourist" was filmed).
https://www.google.com/search?q=fresh+food+market+venice&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=com.yahoo:en-US:official&client=firefox&channel=sb#channel=sb&q=Rialto%20market&rls=com.yahoo:en-US:official
They do cost more, but totally worth it.

I personally would think choosing a place close to train station is convenient for excursions to other close by cities such as Padua/Vicenza/Verona/Treviso

There are 2 bigger super markets that I know of, one is somewhere between Rialto and Grand Canal (sorry, do not remember exact location now). Another one is on island Lido, on the main street very close to the boat station.
Please check out this link,(google keyword "supermarkets in Venice Italy")
https://www.google.com/maps/search/supermarkets+in+Venice,+italy/@45.4363002,12.3378928,15z

If you are going in Sep or Oct, do try some Italian grapes, one of my favorite fruits, but one can only have them in Europe.
情場老戲骨
Finally seeing some one writing about architectures in Europe, not just taking some pictures and eating some touristy food. Oh, and luxury goods shopping, outlet shopping (how can I forget about this part !!). Yes, as a travelers, we can be more sophisticated, not just posting messages to demonstrate "being there, done that". Way to go, Deja Vu !!

While traveling in the Almafi coast area, I found more hybrid Cathedrals, Duomuos, a mix of Moorish and Byzantine flavors. Italian really stand out in Architectures, they know how to take in the beauty of other culture and blend them well with their own. Before I visited south of Italy, I have seen a hybrid Cathedrals in Seville, Spain, it looks very odd to me... Hence, it makes me appreciate more and know, that, there are indeed some ancient artists know how to build them to be master pieces and last for centuries.
名字不要太長像這樣就好
Finally seeing some one writing about architectures in Europe, not just taking some pictures and eating some touristy food. Oh, and luxury goods shopping, outlet shopping (how can I forget about this part !!). Yes, as a travelers, we can be more sophisticated, not just posting messages to demonstrate "being there, done that". Way to go, Deja Vu !!

While traveling in the Almafi coast area, I found more hybrid Cathedrals, Duomuos, a mix of Moorish and Byzantine flavors. Italian really stand out in Architectures, they know how to take in the beauty of other culture and blend them well with their own. Before I visited south of Italy, I have seen a hybrid Cathedrals in Seville, Spain, it looks very odd to me... Hence, it makes me appreciate more and know, that, there are indeed some ancient artists know how to build them to be master pieces and last for centuries.

I am so pleased to have your positive response to my article.
Indeed,there are too much tourists rather than travelers.
Most of the tourists spend their time to proclaim their photos and souvenirs
rather than immerse themselves to appreciate the place more and understand
the daily lives of the locals,not to mention to the deepest part of culture.
And I am just trying my best!
Speaking about the difference between Italy and other European countries in their
hybrid cathedrals,I must say that it is not so much about the aesthetics of their
architects but about the Gothic flourish in France and Spain.The emphasis on vertical
development of Gothic cathedrals make them just too unique to be mashed up.
It is quite usual to see a cathedral built in mixed style. After all,it takes
time(from decades to centuries)to build a cathedral.That makes sense when other architects
took over the unfinished work,they were probably in the different prevalent time.
BTW,I cordially suggest you to type down your words in Chinese to attract more readers for
your remarkable views.You can always use Google Chrome and this linkage might be helpful to you!
http://goo.gl/TL0w1d
B.R.
幼稚園小正太
哇~樓主太厲害了
居然針對威尼斯的教堂寫了一篇介紹

想到自己去西班牙時,
也許是我們不是信徒,對那些藝術也較沒研究
所以真的是看了幾個主要的教堂後
就覺得不想再看了XD