以色列之北:寧錄要塞 Nimrod Fortress (門票、地圖、介紹、參觀心得)

宅若久時天然呆
如果到了以色列的戈蘭高地,別錯過這個蓋在黑門山腳峭壁上的寧錄要塞(Nimrod Fortress)!以色列真的隨便一個景點都比歐洲的教堂或宮殿還要古老!與之前介紹過的在加利利湖附近的美景(貝爾瓦)十字軍城堡國家公園 (http://israelmega.com/belvoir/)相似,這裡起初也是十字軍所蓋的要塞,目的是要把關大馬士革、推羅到加利利湖的路,但不同之處是目前看到的遺跡是後來在13世紀由馬木路克人(mamluk)所加強防禦牆與高塔後的面貌。

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
寧錄要塞 Nimrod Fortress

性質:歷史

開放時間:08:00-17:00 (週五08:00-16:00) 冬天早1小時關

費用:₪21(小孩₪9)可用公園票 (也有獨售寧錄要塞與班尼亞瀑布的聯票₪38/₪19)

建議預留時間:最少1.5小時

推薦指數:✨✨✨✨✨

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
【寧錄要塞的歷史】
十字軍在1096-1099年發動了第一次十字軍東征,從回教徒手中收復了巴勒斯坦後,四處蓋城堡與城牆,包含終於在1129年從阿拉伯人手中拿下了這個通往大馬士革的重要戰略位置(Kil’at Subeiba),然後重建了要塞並以聖經人物「寧錄」命名為「寧錄要塞」。

1164年後阿拉伯人Nur al-Din奪下了要塞,然後1260年,蒙古人打下寧錄要塞,於是要塞落入馬木路克人(mamluk)手中。這個山寨一直是埃及到大馬士革中間一個重要的位置,直到1517年被鄂圖曼土耳其人打敗,然後重要性開始衰落,18世紀時發生了地震又使這裡變成廢墟。

【寧錄的意思】
寧錄的希伯來文是 נמרו ,意思就是「我們一起來叛亂」。聖經記載寧錄建造了尼尼微(就是巴別塔所在地),史學家約瑟夫以及猶太人的塔木德都認為就是寧錄建造了巴別塔。*但不知道十字軍為什麼會給這個要塞取這個名字

https://i0.wp.com/truerichesacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/images/nimrod.png?resize=400%2C280

【寧錄要塞的地圖】

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/THY_8202-Nimrod-%E5%AF%A7%E9%8C%84-%E5%9C%B0%E5%9C%96-%E6%A8%99%E7%A4%BA_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C660

【景點重點】
1.西南塔(南塔)
2.城樓
3.秘密通道

外面看得到很多落下的石頭,都是18世紀發生的地震而震倒的

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/02-THY_0815_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/02-THY_0823-%E7%9F%B3%E9%A0%AD_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(1) 西北塔
要塞的入口處在西北塔,照片中兩個拱門,入口是左邊那個。右邊那個是….. 等下再說

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/03-1-THY_0824-%E8%A5%BF%E5%8C%97%E5%A1%94%E5%85%A5%E5%8F%A3_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

從外面看過去是這樣,我們要爬階梯上去

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/03-2-THY_0646-%E5%85%A5%E5%8F%A3_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

往上爬到要塞裡面!

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/03-3-%E4%B8%8A%E5%B1%B1-649_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C468

左邊的是西北門的城門,中間的據說是…. 小便的地方….

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/03-4-THY_0659-%E8%A5%BF%E5%8C%97%E9%96%80_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

拱門上的石頭因為地震而移動位置,像是牙齒快要掉的樣子,但是拱門居然還沒倒!城門上的阿拉伯文銘文,內容提到 Ayyubi governer al-Aziz Othman,年代大概是1230年。

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/03-5-%E5%85%A5%E5%8F%A3%E9%8A%98%E6%96%87_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C468

進門後,回頭看塔的樣子,看得到上二樓的階梯,1275年曾加蓋二樓,但是毀於地震

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/03-6-THY_0668-%E8%A5%BF%E5%8C%97%E9%96%80_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(2) Baybars銘文
穿過城門進到廣場後,地上放著一個超長的石頭,推測原來是地震後才從建築物內震落下來的。這是約在1275年馬木路克人留下的阿拉伯文銘文,內容大約是歌頌馬木路克王朝最偉大的統治者—埃及蘇丹拜巴爾一世 (Sultan Baybars),然後他派了部下Bilik成為這個要塞的指揮官。

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/04-THY_0671-%E5%BE%8C%E9%9D%A2%E9%98%BF%E6%8B%89%E4%BC%AF%E6%96%87_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(3) 西塔
算是能看出原來塔的形狀,目前還在進行挖掘,所以不能進去!

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/05-1-THY_0684-%E5%8E%9F%E4%BE%86%E6%87%89%E8%A9%B2%E6%98%AF%E9%80%99%E5%80%8B%E5%A1%94%E7%9A%84%E9%83%A8%E5%88%86_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

原本牆上、塔中的石頭都掉落下來,上面刻著阿拉伯文銘文

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/05-2-collage-682_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C468

有沒有注意到中間的動物石頭?這是個獵豹,是埃及蘇丹拜巴爾一世的標誌

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/05-3-THY_0680-%E7%8D%85%E5%AD%90%E7%9F%B3%E9%A0%AD_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(4) 斜坡路
其實這是從外面看西塔,要是剛才沒有走(1)的台階,可以走這個平坦的斜坡進來

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/06-THY_0821-%E8%A5%BF%E5%A1%94%E5%92%8C%E6%96%9C%E5%9D%A1%E8%B7%AF_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(5) 西南塔
西塔旁邊就是西南塔,原來是十字軍所蓋、後來也被阿拉伯人和馬木路克人修建

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-1-THY_0820-%E8%A5%BF%E5%8D%97%E5%A1%94_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

如果從另一個角度看會是這樣

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-2-THY_0739-%E8%A5%BF%E5%8D%97%E5%A1%94_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

西南塔可以入內探險,這是進來的樣子,像是一個大廳

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-2-THY_0694-%E5%A1%94%E5%85%A72_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-3-THY_0692-%E5%A1%94%E5%85%A7_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

比較靠窗口的地方已經沒有完整的屋頂了!但漂亮拱形的窗戶還在,還是看得出有十字軍風格

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-4-THY_0704-%E6%BC%82%E4%BA%AE%E7%9A%84%E6%8B%B1%E5%BD%A2%E7%AA%97%E6%88%B6_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-4-THY_0699-collage_IsraelMega.png?resize=800%2C533

這個方向可看到其他塔樓的風景!

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-5-THY_0687-%E5%9F%8E%E7%89%86_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

沿著不起眼的樓梯走下去… 有一點擠

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-6-THY_0714-%E5%A1%94%E5%85%A7%E5%BE%80%E4%B8%8B%E7%9A%84%E5%B0%8F%E6%A8%93%E6%A2%AF_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

下面有什麼呢?會有攻擊敵人的很好位置,這是拜巴爾一世擴建後新加的射箭窗口(embrasures)

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/07-6-THY_0716_IsraelMega.png?resize=800%2C533

(6) 水庫
大小是9×25公尺,深度為7公尺,屋頂會抹白堊輝,以防水蒸發掉。有這樣搜集雨水,被敵人圍攻時才不怕缺水

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/08-1-THY_0726-%E5%A4%A7%E6%B0%B4%E5%BA%AB_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

我們是從底部看,以前的人是走樓梯下來的

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/08-2-THY_0725-%E5%A4%A7%E6%B0%B4%E5%BA%AB_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(7) 飲水處
這就是公共飲水處,銘文內容關於Fahr a-Din Hassan,因為是他修的。石缸是拿來裝水用

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/09-%E9%A3%B2%E6%B0%B4%E8%99%95_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C468

(8) 美塔
八角塔,不過有兩間被併在一起,所以看起來像是七間。然後外面其實也有一間是小便所… 只是我沒拍到

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/10-THY_0735-%E5%85%AB%E8%A7%92%E5%A1%94_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(9) 護城河
剛才這區到更小更高的城樓之間有個乾的護城河,原來需要過橋才能抵達。

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/11-THY_0741-%E5%9B%9B%E5%91%A8%E9%A2%A8%E6%99%AF1_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(10) 城樓 Donjon
城樓這就是最後的防禦線,要塞其他部分若淪陷了,至少這裡還可以繼續防衛。四角都有塔樓,廢墟以前是幾個廳以及蓄水池

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/12-1-THY_0772-%E4%BB%A5%E5%89%8D%E6%98%AF%E5%B9%BE%E5%80%8B%E5%BB%B3%E4%BB%A5%E5%8F%8A%E8%93%84%E6%B0%B4%E6%B1%A0_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

感覺還需要挖很久….

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/12-2-THY_0773-%E4%BB%A5%E5%89%8D%E6%98%AF%E5%B9%BE%E5%80%8B%E5%BB%B3%E4%BB%A5%E5%8F%8A%E8%93%84%E6%B0%B4%E6%B1%A0_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

另外其實這裡還有逃生路線,也是還沒開放…. 吧?

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/12-3-THY_0776-%E4%B8%8B%E9%9D%A2%E6%87%89%E8%A9%B2%E9%82%84%E6%9C%89%E6%9D%B1%E8%A5%BF_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(11) 觀景台風景
城樓的風景超好,可以看到黑門山、戈蘭高地、加利利湖和胡拉谷的風景

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/13-1-THY_0744-%E5%9B%9B%E5%91%A8%E9%A2%A8%E6%99%AF2_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

這就是黑門山啦

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/13-2-THY_0745_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

準備走回剛才那一區!(這些樹都是橡樹)

https://i0.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/13-3-THY_0778-%E5%9B%9E%E9%A0%AD%E7%9C%8B%E5%9F%8E%E5%A0%A1_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(12) 北塔(犯人塔)
最後一個需要參觀的塔,這還是拜巴爾一世蓋的塔,裡面也有大廳和許多射箭口

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/14-1-THY_0792-%E5%8C%97%E5%A1%94%E5%85%A7_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

到了15世紀,這裡主要作為監牢

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/14-2-THY_0795_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

(13) 秘密通道
最後,到了最有特色的部分啦!秘密通道的入口處在(1),敵人從外面看是看不出有什麼秘密通道的

https://i2.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/15-1-THY_0814-%E5%BE%9E%E6%97%81%E9%82%8A%E7%9A%84%E8%B7%AF%E5%9B%9E%E5%85%A5%E5%8F%A3_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

但裡面竟然有這樣的秘密逃生路線或是出其不意的攻擊路線,大概27公尺長、1.8公尺寬。天花板是拱形的

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/15-2-THY_0800_IsraelMega.png?resize=800%2C533

出口在北牆,藏在一群石頭後面… 現在出口位置毫無掩飾,我們就是從這裡出來的!

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/15-3-THY_0810-%E6%88%91%E5%80%91%E5%BE%9E%E9%80%99%E5%80%8B%E5%87%BA%E4%BE%86%E7%9A%84_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

我們不是小矮人啦,石頭比例差不多是這樣

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/15-4-%E7%9F%B3%E9%A0%AD%E6%AF%94%E4%BE%8B_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C468

出來後的風景!

https://i1.wp.com/israelmega.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/16-THY_0812_IsraelMega.jpg?resize=800%2C533

原文章出處:http://israelmega.com/nimrod-fortress/
你再發光我就拔你插頭
謝謝版大,真是令人神往。
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMebjQzkkjg